Nothing to be alarmed about. Bike is running fine (to a certain extent). Reason for the question is im pondering it at the moment. Ive got the usual false neutral from 5th to 6th (like most have) and if im not "surefooted" with the gear change i can find a neutral here and there. Ive been experimenting with positioning the gear lever in different positions which has improved it somewhat. Other reasons include the front barrel is loosing paint at a rate of knots and looks scrappy at fuck. I was in Louigi motos back end of last year and Chris the mechanic said "yeah - the only way to cure that 5th to 6th false neutral is to strip the motor..." so, im thinking of getting it done and at the same time also getting the whole engine coated in xylan to weatherproof it. More to the point is the job at hand and while im not made of money id like to possibly do a lot of the work myself. Im happy with pulling the engine out and after that it would be either take it over to Louigi - let him strip it and then i take the barrells and crankcases, get them coated and then return them back for the rebuild, then reassemble the bike. Or if someone on here is happy with undertaking that (the rebuild) id happily cross their palm for the pleasure. While i can do alot of work on bikes, gearbox and top end stuff i stay away from as anything not done correctly can result in a trashed motor. Look forward to any options, suggestions or anything else...
Curiosity got the better of me so i gave Rich at Louigi a ring....with me supplying the engine, fixing the gear change issues and handing me back the just front barrel for coating....1500 quid roughly or for a total engine strip - 3k and the coating would be on top of that.... However...i did mention to him that i always found the gear change to be fine when the bike was cold. Ive always used 10w 40 in mine ( i think this is the stock standard ) but rich insists/says he always uses 15w 50, which ive got quite a bit of at home...so, gonna try and oil change tomorrow...see what happens...if that cures the problem then ill probably go with just getting the front barrel recoated as the crankcases and top barrel are relatively ok...
Im not really too bothered. Part and parcel of bike ownership. It just irritates the shit out of me that the most central part of the bike can have the worst quality of coating....im almost looking for a reason to pull it apart...
It's worth checking the gear selector arm is adjusted correctly. Even a couple of mm off "perfect" can bugger the shift action.
Yep. The selector arm that pulls/pushes the gearbox drum. It's tucked away behind the flywheel, but only needs the alternator cover off to check/adjust. Need an alignment tool though. Cheaper than an engine rebuild though and it's solved many problems before
Right - ok....looks like a job for tomorrow....ive never been in that side of the engine....last month i replaced the selector in the other side (Behind the clutch) with an upgraded ceramic selector - which has, made the actual change smoother....does this selector, kind of, "fall out of adjustment"? as it were or, does the fact that ive fitted an upgraded part on the other side mean that, the other side (the gear selector) need asjusting...
The detent, the one you've replaced is just for indexing the drum. The selector behind the flywheel, does the work of selecting gears. It has to be set accurately to work properly in both directions, it's a simple pull/push system, but if it's out of line, it'll have more travel one way that the other. It can move. Stamping on the gear shift, especially down changes can move it. Doesn't need to be much, a fraction at the mounting will multiply to a couple of mm at the drum and that's enough. unless you have the setting tool to hand, you're not going to do it though.
yep. There's alignment marks on the selector. The tool fits over the pins on the drum and you have to adjust the selector to align the marks with the tool
Done a little reasearch as I've been having false neutral issues too and I came across this article, it seems pretty helpful: http://www.factorypro.com/Install_p...all/Install,CENTERING_spring,Duc,MTS1100.html
Neeps. If your interested, my brother is over in Milwaukee at the end of next week....if they have them in stock I may be able to get them to send some to my mates address. Ive already got a coolant manifold and one of the lads on here as sent some stuff there...
Thanks for the offer! but I think I'm gonna try adjusting it first and seeing if that makes any difference.
Be interested to see how you get on...marc came back to me...he can't get any made quick enough....shame as if it improves gear change then I'm all for it...
Continuing the research this evening I've taken the alternator L/h engine cover off. As I'm in my phone posting I can't remember if I said but I spoke to rich at louigi and he said that he always puts 15w 50 in. I've got 10w 40 in mine and I'd say that I always feel that it's better when it's cold...so I've drained the oil and while it's got no oil I'm gonna get both sides recoated....cover not in brilliant condition... However I've had the chance to use some really strong acid I've had for years to clean a couple of rusty bolts on there.... This is the marker inside...I'm presuming this is correct?
Dropped the engine casing off to the Mr cerakote today...if it's all good I'll put his name up...from the brief chat seems like he knows his stuff...any...back on topic. Problem solved. The gear arm wasn't returning. I'd removed it to check and there's a washer what sits between the bolt and the spring...it found it's way inbetween the spring...so, removed, reinvested and double checked...all good...this culprit... You can just see the edge of the washer...
