1) There are stainless brake lines fitted, 2 long lines from the master cylinder, one to each caliper. The left-hand line interferes with the clocks on almost full-left lock. I think it's routed incorrectly and should follow the right-hand line until under the bottom yoke. Should I a) replace the lines with a more standard setup from Goodridge/Hel b) try rerouting the left-hand line? Some of the banjo bolts have started to rust anyway, so I'm going to at least replace these. 2) I opened up the ECU (sticker wasn't intact anyway) to take a look. 2 things here to note: i) Eprom sticker says MS 10 or MS 1,0 I can't really tell from the photo I took. Can someone identify this for me please? The bike has Sil Motor carbon exhausts, I assume (and I'm prepared to stand corrected) they breathe similarly to the Termis. (They are nice and loud ) ii) I can see corrosion on the board. It's greenish in colour which means copper has been oxidised. I am not too worried as I am an electronics engineer and can repair this sort of thing. 3) The front forks are undoubtedly the standard Showa units, but a PO has applied Ohlins stickers. I guess these are for looks only, as I am not aware of any Ohlins internal retrofit programs for Showa forks 4) On the vertical cylinder there are two empty holes to the left of the exhaust port. Can someone tell me what they are for (what's missing)? If any other weird things are spotted, I'd appreciate a heads-up. I can always upload more photos. Thanks.
Forks are definietly Showa. Standard brake lines are one from master and there's a T piece on top of the front guard to direct to each caliper THe two "holes" in the head will have plugs in them. They are water jacket casting holes. Nothing goes into them but a small welch plug Not sure about the EPROM chip but if the bike runs well then it's probably a good match for the exhaust system
Ok, some more questions now I've done a bit more research and looked at the bike a bit closer: 5) There are several connectors on the bike that are not plugged in to anything. The one under the seat I understand is the diagnostic connector (pic i). There's another one on the left side seat rail with a jumper wire plug in it (pic ii). Almost like something has been bypassed (side stand?). The other one is hanging next to the battery (pic iii). I have seen this on someone else's 748 but I cannot find it in any diagrams. (i) (ii) (iii) 6) The sidestand doesn't look like any model I can identify. There's a larg tang on it - maybe it's a custom job (a previous owner with a prosthetic leg? ) 7) What's supposed to be here, if anything? Left side crankcase cover next to the clutch slave cylinder... 8) The paint around the engine number flaked off when I rubbed it with a towel. If I degrease the area and put a thin coat of something like Hammerite smooth silver, will it bring up the number or obscure it. I am not doubting that the number matches the docs, I'm just curious and would like to check it. 9) The ECU had quite a lot of corrosion inside, on the circuit board and in the alloy housing. Looks like the seal between the main connector and the housing had been compromised. Also, whoever changed the EPROM out did not put a new sticker/seal over the top . I have however removed the corrosion from the board, and almost finished the housing. Will post pics more to this thread once finished Sorry for the pic-heavy post. I hope y'all have reasonably cheap internet And thanks for any insights.
Picture i) is the diagnostic connector. Should have 3 wires into it K line, earth, L line. Think picture ii) is for a factory alarm immobiliser. If you remove the link bike should not start. Looks like someone got sick of the suicide flip up side stand. Your ECU shows the importance of the rubber bung sticker being replaced.
5: I have the same thing on my 916, if it's any consolation. The mod allowed the bike to idle on the stand- the original design plan required you to be sitting on the bike with the sidestand up for it to start. 6: Speaking of sidestands.... yeesh! That thing is an abomination. Get an OEM one, or some like to install one from a 1098 (less dramatic lean angle). 7: That's a boss for bikes with the P8 ecu. A timing sensor screws in there. Your 748 has the 1.6M, so not required. 8: Engine number looks retrievable. 9: Corrosion and electronics don't mix. Nice work on on cleaning it up.
Yeah about that - the first time I went to start it, it was in gear Luckily no mishap. Will not happen again I promise. Now I know it's not factory-standard, I will get my grinder out. As for the lean angle - I might tig a new piece in. Super, good to know. Thanks. I've just plugged the cleaned-up board into the harness and it fired straight up so I'm happy I didn't kill a £500+ ECU
I've properly refitted the cleaned up ECU and it starts just fine. In fact it starts just fine even without connectors ii and iii installed As for the sidestand switch, that is probably bypassed in the EPROM.
Sad update. While overtaking someone at 75'ish the fairings exploded. I was hit in the back on both sides near my shoulder blades as they were ripped off. A car that was following me (not the one I overtook) ran over one of the fairings and smashed it. The only thing I can think happened is the bottom DZUs came loose. I think this is way beyond saving
Ouch...Thats bad luck, the 2 Dzuz fasteners under the belly pan can be a pain to locate and secure properly, my guess is the previous owner either didn't fit them properly or just left them and relied on the other fasteners to hold things together, i had the same thing happen to me but with less drastic results, mine just acted as an air brake!
What a bugger - sorry to hear that this happened to you. Horse bolted info - I always used to run duct tape along the bottom to make sure they didn’t fall out.
I have Allen screws going into captive nuts under my 748 fairings, they are a lot safer than Dzus fasteners I think. I've suffering disappearing fairings too, once, it's a scary business.
