1260 Intermitent Cruise Control

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Coman, Jan 15, 2024.

  1. I bought my 1260 in October last year to replace my 1200DVT, and I'm delighted with it.
    There were a few things I've altered and replaced, but one that remains is the cruise control not working. I thought it was a software issue, as the activation light comes on but the SET function didn't register on the dash or work. Until last weekend that is when to my surprise I got it to work twice. It now appears that the fault is in the SET switch only making occasional contact.

    My question is has anybody any good advice about dismantling that switch so I can clean the contacts? I'd like to be pre-warned about springs and small pieces which may fall out when I open it up.
     
  2. Have you replaced the clutch lever on the bike?
     
  3. Yes I have, and the brake lever. What is your point, there could be a dodgy switch in the clutch lever?
    I don't think it's that, as the Cruise Control activation light comes on the dash, it is just that the SET switch mostly doesn't work.
    I asked Snells and they gave me a few tips, like the brake switch not working, but that isn't the issue either.
    I will be dismantling the handlebar switch soon, as I think that is the culprit.
     
  4. On the V4 ,there is a micro switch that is operated under the lever. If that switch is not triggered by the clutch lever, the cruise will not work. I can’t say if the 1260 is the same but it’s worth checking out.
     
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  5. Different marque but my MV Turismo had issues with the QS sensor that stopped the cruise control working. Might be worth checking if other highlighted causes don't resolve the problem. The electrics really let that bike down, basically not built for use in any conditions other than guaranteed warm sunny weather... otherwise an absolute gem.
     
  6. Check that your brake light is not permanently on. The switch on my rear foot peg (the little metal spring had shifted) and the cruise control would not set as it thought the brake was being applied.
     
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  7. Thanks Hill. I'll check that.
     
  8. I have checked the brake light switches work, but I'll check that again. Thanks for the tip.
     
  9. I had this same fault on my 1200 DVT, it was however accompanied by the generic yellow warning light, top left on the dash.
     
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  10. No warning light on mine.
     
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  11. I doubt it's related, but the only time I've had electronic issues on my 1260 was when I needed to reset the TPS because the quick shifter was being grumpy.

    Maybe give that a go, but I don't think the cruise control cares about gear sync.
     
  12. The inside of the switch is all circuit board and sealed switches
    I’ve had a look inside mine as the buttons were sticking
    The rocker parts spring out to reveal the actual switches, the loom plugs in at the lower side, worth checking to see if it’s plugged in ok- usually get a warning triangle if it’s not
    Hopefully some photos for you IMG_2814.jpeg IMG_2815.jpeg IMG_2816.jpeg IMG_2817.jpeg IMG_2818.jpeg IMG_2819.jpeg IMG_2821.jpeg IMG_2822.jpeg
     
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  13. And as for the switches it’s worth checking the clutch micro switch has clearance as it’s operation is one of the cancel
    Signals to the ECU
     
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  14. Thanks @Funners, that's just what I'm looking for. As soon as it warms up enough for a brass monkey to retain it's gonads I'll get in the garage and take mine to bits. It doesn't look like there's anything that will ping out when the casing is split, but first Ill check the clutch micro switch is OK as you and Duke suggested.
     
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  15. Just in case you aren’t aware, the lower screws only hold the cover on, you need a special tool to remove the switch from the bars
     
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  16. Just double check the levers if you’ve changed them. My 1260 ones wouldn’t work on the V4, as others said there is a micro switch that activates and is connected with the cruise control
     
  17. The micro switch is very delicate. If its not working it will need replacement.
     
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  18. I didn't know that. I didn't think those little screws were man enough to clamp the switch to the bars, but didn't know about a special tool being required. Do you think it is something you can get by with a little imagination and usual tools? It will be very annoying to have to pay dealer rates just to do a little job like that.
    Or can those rocker switches be popped out without having to dismantle the switch?
     
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  19. It’s a shaped bit of spring steel just to depress a retaining tang in the switch body
    I’ll post a picture of mine later this evening so you can see what’s involved
    Yes the rockers “spring out” with the switch insitu, if you consider an independent rocker that activates a waterproof switch under it you get the idea
    One of the photos above shows the pivot pins that hold them
    The lower cover also comes off no problem
     
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  20. Isn't it just a torx style screw?
     
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