Hi all, Put my 1098s through a pretty hefty service recently. Bike went in in late nNov and I got it back end Feb. Mainly I guess to parts and shipping. Being winter I was patient. Had a Desmo done... Then Clutch was iffy so had that replaced Then had starting issues, so had sprag clutch replaced Have ridden bike twice since getting it back - about 45 mins each time Started OK. I go to start this morning and it cranks but won't run. Battery check via handlebar switch says 11.8v. , so I put it on an Optimate and return to it a couple of hours later with all green lights. I check the battery - 12.1v, which then goes down to 12, then 11.9, then 11.8. Have not tried again to start yet, but would I be right to assume the battery has had it? It was new in late 2020, along with a new reg/rec. I've posted elsewhere about using an Li battery and beefier less at some point, but wonder in the meantime if the indications above mean battery is fvcked? I should add that current battery is a Yeas YTX14-BS - rated at 12.6Ah - is there a better one I could before I go the Li route? TIA BJB
Service stations and battery supply shops have a testing machines that you can use to measures your battery’s voltage as it delivers a current to a known load. Some machines measure a battery’s internal resistance. You can simulate this test by removing the fuse to the fuel pump so that when the engine is cranked it can’t start. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals as it cranks. If the voltage drops into the upper-9 volt range, you need a new battery.
If this is recently and during really cold weather then could drop just below 12v on first turn of key if you have mandatory "lights on" set-up, plus the bike voltmeter can read slightly low also. As said above, a reading directly at the battery is best and depending on whether you have aftermarket starter leads added (definitely worth doing) then starter churn speed ought to tell you. A load test as above is another route.
A charged motorcycle battery should be putting out 12.8v and over. The systems to start the bike are voltage reliant and if insufficient the bike will either struggle or not start. Think you know you need a new battery. Yuasa are reliable. I had a Magneti Marelli one fitted to my 1198 and a Motbatt to my 999. Or, follow your wish to convert to lithium.
can you turn your headlights off manually @bigjimmyb or do they come on automatically when you switch the ignition on?
This morning, Chris. Left it in the sun and on charge for a couple of hours and it fired right up. I was forced to stop behind a van that had stopped for a little old lady to cross the road (20 yards from a fckn Zebra!) and it cut out and wouldn't start again. As per Chris W below, I may well ending up going Li and beefier leads, but I will try a Pb battery again first to see if it cures it, then I'll know. Thanks Chris - as above, will try Pb first - yes I do deffo need a new one after todays saga ruined my afternoon off Automatically mate. Does nt help I guess seeing as they probably draw current, as well as priming the fuel pump etc. Pi$$ed off with the dealer as they had it for 3 months - they replaced the sprag but seemingly didn't check the electrics out as well and find the dud battery - grrr!
Exactly the same symptoms as my mates street triple yesterday, Left idle for months, Bike wouldn’t start, stuck it on a charger for a few days (Reading 13.5v 0.86a) took it out for a spin yesterday, stopped for fuel, shortly after stopped at a junction spluttered and died, didn’t have enough power to turn on the dash or cycle the FI, I had to go out and jump start him.
An update from the workshop. Battery is 100% OK. Likely cause is 3 months at another workshop with minimal starts/charges. And the connection to my optimiser is shite. New one ordered. Can anyone suggest a reasonably priced battery health checker I can buy? TIA
While I'm at it, maybe my Optimate Duo isn't quite what I need either - could anyone recommend something I can plug into and leave on to ensure the battery is kept in good nick? TIA
I'm not really up on this, I thought most Optimates were ok? - still better than nothing There is a new-fangled Carlos Fandango make that has been touted around recently on here, a search might find it. As for health checker, unless you are talking about a load tester, a good quality meter is all you need and learn to interprete the voltage readings whether cranking or after a week, just before starting etc. EDIT CTEK and Noco Genius chargers are good apparently, and Halfords would offer discount if you had a card but not sure if available on here with a subscription anymore.
The small issue you have, buy any other make of charger/maintainer than the one you have been using, you end up having to change the battery pig tail lead. CTeck have their own, Noco (my personal favourite) have their own and of course, Optimate have their own. Bloody infuriating. The Noco 2 is a discrete unit, plug and leave ……… after you have changed the battery charging lead Andy
For the un-initiated Andy, apart from possibly catering for a greater range of battery types, what does the Noco boast over the Optimate's that we've all come to use? also, how long have you owned and used the Noco 2?
The Genius will charge and maintain, lead acid, AGM and LiPo/LiFe chemistries and also offers a 6V lead acid chemistry option, all in one, neat unit. I bought my first, a G3500 about 4 years ago after seeing it being used in MR’s workshop. It is not bike specific, caters for marine and automotive and all chemistries. Awesome piece of kit, rescued a 12V AGM car battery from 3V that all of my other charging options gave up on. About 2 years ago Noco launched 2 bike specific chargers, the Genius 1 and the Genius 2, only difference was output current, I bought the Genius 2 because the G1 only has a 1 amp output. Last year, Noco launched a 2 output Genius 2 in the UK (the US market already has a 4 output unit) which, as I have 4 bikes in the garage on maintainers, I bought 2. I have found them very reliable to date and have not, as yet, had a flat battery. Being the consummate anorak, the 2 output unit comes with 2 meter extension cables making it very flexible when connecting up the bikes. Andy
