After six and a half years faultless service, my keyless filler cap is starting to play up. It hasn't completely failed (yet!) but recently I've had to turn the ignition on and off a couple of times before the cap unlocks. I've done a little research and it looks a right pain to gain access to the connector to see if it needs reseating. Anybody had similar problems and had a happy outcome?
find the connector and unplug/replug it a few times. That may help. That is all mine has ever neaded, and that has only been a few times over the last 9 years. Next give where the solenoid is in the flap a good clean. With the filler flap open turn the ignition on then off, you should be able to see the solenoid move. Spray with some wd40 then a good wipe (don't leave it covered in oil as it will congeal over time and gum it up) Just don't get your finger caught under it when it times out and retracts, as it bleedin hurts !
Easy, remove the bolts securing the old one, bolt in new one, locate said connector under fuel tank/ or where ever ducati have placed the sender then Pray. Easy
Not hard at all, connector located under top LH panel on my 1260, but there are also two breather pipes that need swopping over from old cap to new
Its not quite that simple as just unbolting it. pre-DVT or DVT you will need to remove the painted panels on the tank. This is because there are a pair of hoses attached to the filler (one vent, one overflow). You need to be able to get to these to disconnect / reconnect, and its only really doable with the panel removed. Its not a big problem, just a bit fiddly. On the DVT the hard plastic ring around the filler is also very tight, its not a clearance fit like on the pre-DVT bikes. I found it easier to fit the filler into this ring and into the tank cover then fit it, rather than trying to get the painted tank cover to slip over the filler after already fitting it to the tank. Just make sure you get the filler bolts into the tank before you bolt the panel in place. My advice is ensure you leave the connector somewhere you can get at it. On my pre-DVT bike it is on the rhs of the head-stock, where a bunch of other cables come out. On my Enduro it is under the panel that covers the emergency start switch. Hope that helps.
Righto. assuming you've not had the tank off before: - remove two black panels around bars (4 bolts either side, one is hidden in the cubby box under the rubber liner) - remove bolts from side scoops and beak, and take it off in one lump (remember to disconnect the air sensor cable) - remove the right hand tank panel, two different sized bolts here, plus the seat locating ones. - same for the left side, (although if you can find the connector already you might not need to remove this, just slacken it) - now you can remove the central panel around the filler - remove hoses off of filler, and unbolt it - if you have found the connector at this point your doing well. If not you need to have the tank off (two bolts at front, two at rear, unclipping all the wiring from the front left (or unbolting the mounting bracket if you can), unplug the pump and sensor connectors at the back, then lift up the rear and unplug the two hoses. - if you had the tank off refit it, making sure you don't drop the front mounting rubbers that go under the bolts - fit new filler, connecting hoses first if it helps, and loosely tie-wrap the cable down the right hand hose (I say loosely, as it will make it easier to pull them off the hose next time you need the tank off) - remove the blanking end out of the loom connector and plug the cable in. Give it a try at this stage, make sure it works. - then slap all the panels back on, remembering to get the air connecting rubber lined up and the air sensor plugged in (if you forget you will get a warning on the dash) I can have the tank off and back on inside an hour, but if you havent done it before it may take you a little longer. I use a plastic divided tray to put all the bolts in, so I know what goes where, it makes it easier the first few times you do it. Have fun
