So riding home m25, and bike cut out (dash stays on, revs off - down to zero)...coasted to hard shoulder, clutch in and start button but nowt. Wait a while, starts, then runs for a few secs. (literally enough to get some speed up) then cut out again, wait, etc.. until home (3 miles of stop start not too bad, better than calling the aa) Happened before - was kill switch (replaced 6 months in, then 18 months in, now I guess 48 months).. This time have scared myself reading about having the whole 'handsfree' replaced stories, but am hoping its switch again - thing is the bike out of warranty - not scared about buying a new switch and taking right hand side fairing off to reconnect etc...but will be an issue if its the brains that need replacing. Experience is telling me that its the switch - last time it failed a few times again on the motorway and then seemed to degrade quickly. There is also a relay on the left hand side according to manual, but am going to start with the switch. Will report progress... bugs
bugs, Is it worth taking to your dealer warranty or not? Given the recent stories of Ducati goodwill it could be worth a shot especially if the servicing etc is up to speed.
Whenever I have had problems with the switches (often enough), kill/ignition, starter button and the odometer/trip mainly, a good dose of contact cleaner blasted into/around the gaps has normally sorted it. I take it this approach hasn't helped? Bit bad that they can't develop switches to work outside innit?
Update : Kill switch ordered - 51 gbp Dealer said an intermittent fault points to probably that there is corrosion and is the switch and probably not the handsfree which is 440 gbp. The switch is on the 5th part version apparently. Will fit next week/weekend... bugs.
Might be worth stripping the old switch and making the parts out of stainless steel ready for when the new one goes tits up.
zezzzs ok so the kill switch wiring harness goes all the under... the gas tank so everything needs to come off. bike apart, tank removed...switch replaced, done happier... but noticed airfilter snorkel not flush, bottom screw gone, so ok lets remove 2 other screws for air filter and inspect... 2 screws rotating freely !! inside boss gone ?ok lets take airbox off...another big job and stuck again help ? - on the r/h and l/h tps on one side and apv connectors on the other side. whats the best way/how do these connectors work/come apart - any tips ? bugs
pics of airbox intake - missing screw at bottom. this means the snorkel will 'lift' from airbox ... so there wont be a seal, other 2 screws rotate freely.
So plan is try and remove airbox and try and get at the screws from inside. Here is a pic of the R/H connector that I am struggling a little as not sure how it comes apart ?
Are you talking about disconnecting the grey electrical connector? If so, push the grey part up, then push in (towards the bike centre) the small rectangle part with the 2 lines at the centre bottom of the grey connector, then pull the grey connector down, they can sometimes be stubborn so a good wiggle can help. The small rectangle is connected to the vertical bar that goes under the bridge with the white dot, it has a hook that holds on a peg on the black part, you are trying to lift this hook off the peg by pushing the lined rectangle in. Hope I'm not teaching you how to suck eggs :Arghh:
Even if the bottom screw will 'stay' in I will not be happy that the 2 at the top are spinning to when it comes to the next time to service. so I am having another go at the connector tonight. (now that I have had a rest and have bit more info).
Update on this thread to finish off... The airbox has now been replaced (GBP 90) but a right pain to remove btw, take extra care when tightening those screws when changing air filter - do not over tighten else a new airbox is required and lot & lot of pain and hassle - loosening/removing the radiator will help by the way. Also replaced throttle cables whilst the airbox was off the throttle bodies (GBP 45). Worth doing if your bike is over 20k like mine and my throttle sometimes did not 'return' and needed cable adjusting (behind the screen). OK everything back on (including putting in K&N air filter). Rode to work today, all good. no more cut-offs, that's my fourth kill switch. The kill switch is a silly design really, where the clasp closes at the bottom there is a hole for the wires and its obvious that water can get in and over a year or so it will corrode - inspection on removal did not reveal any obvious rust/damage on the old one btw but there is a small PCB in there so am guessing there is some micro break somewhere. Bugs
