Hi Hypermotard evo Just gone from front only LED indicators to both front & rear LED (all non standard), connected everything including resistors & flash rate was correct without engine running, as soon as engine running then they only do a partial flash, why does this change with engine running? anyone experienced this before? & whats the cure. Disconnected the resistors & flash is same with or without engine running albeit too fast.
You need to measure the voltage with the engine running and not running. It probably jumps a lot. Does it change with ignition on but engine not running? (CANBUS?)
The change in flash function with the engine running is almost certainly because the voltage is higher with the engine running, usually going from approx 12.5V to approx 14.5V. The Hyper has an unusual flasher arrangement where the indicator switch provides 12v to either RH or LH as selected and the ground is made by the dash which provides the flash function. I believe that the dash can enable LED rear flashers without the need for resistors. The pictures below show how to access the menu to enable them. Easier for me than trying to describe how. Hopefully that will give you the right flash rate.
hi derek looking in the owners & workshop manual 2010-2012hyper 1100 evo i dont see this page, are you reffering to the pre-evo model?
Sorry, you are correct. I was looking a 2008 manual. The 2010-12 one which cover the evo shows the Service menu but it doesn't include a setting for the indicators. I suggest then that your resistors are not the correct value to emulate the bulbs. The bulbs are rated at 10W so, using Resistance = Volts squared / Watts we get R= 14 x 14 / 10 = 19.6Ω. So a 20Ω resistor across each LED should give the correct flash rate.
They will get hot but since the flashers have a 50/50 duty cycle and are only on for short periods at a time they shouldn't get dangerously hot. If they are rated at 10W that should be sufficient although realistically they will only have to handle an average of 5W.
Ok so your not going to believe a word of this so I don't know why I'm bothering and it makes no sense 1098, fitted LED's to the rear, no change to the flash rate Then installed DP performance mirrors (better mirrors, shit indicators) ignition on high flash rate, Running engine normal flash rate Tried resistors on back and front separately and together, no change This went on a for a while then without doing anything flash rate went to normal with both ignition off and on I have no clue I did nothing. I'm not the only one to experience this sort of weirdness @arthurbikemad experienced similar sort of occurrences of the Ducati black arts. Personally I don't believe it's voltage change that is the culprit, even Ducati have replaced bi-metallic strips as timers. There is weirdness going on with the CanBus and the dash, but as I have neither the time nor inclination to try to track down what it could be, I just call "magic shit".......................but I am an amateur
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but... I have found I've got a very similar issue. I fitted aftermarket LEDs front & rear to my 796 hyper about 5 years ago. (It's canbus wiring etc. but you cannot set the dash to LED on these models). Anyway, it took a few goes of different resistors to stabilise flash rate. Then last years MOT they pointed out the rate was too fast, even tho it passed all previous MOTs. It's due again now, however I've just checked the wiring, which looks ok but noticed the rate is unstable & generally too fast, maybe 150fpm with motor off. But a steady 80 fpm approx, when motor is running. My feeling is I could change resistors to stabilise speed with motor off but then it would be unstable with it running, which is surely the worst of the 2 possible setups. Not sure if going up or down resistance wise might get to a point where flash rate is within MOT spec & stable enough with engine on & off. Or just going to end up in the above scenario & no good when riding. At present there are two 10w 68ohm metal clad resistors running the fronts & something similar in the rear, sealed in a little heat sink I made - so can't see the spec.this min.
As I understand it, min rate is 60 fpm and max is 120 rpm. Aim to get between these figures engine on or off.
Yep thanks, obv I had to get into that ballpark originally. On the face of it, it wouldn't seem to matter that the flash rate is wrong when engine is off, since I'm not riding it at that point, (although I could be parked up somewhere). Except if the tester only tests it in that state. With the engine running it's fine. Pretty sure for MOTs if you have lights, they must work correctly, even if you're not actually riding it. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of this, the opp way round to the OP. I'm more concerned that I'll spend hours messing around again with different resistors & end up with wrong flash rate in both states, engine off & on, or perfect when off & useless when on.
Have some of the LEDs within one or more of the units burnt out? That will affect the required voltage draw and throw out your previous resistance calculations. It may as simple as replacing the LED unit with a new one of the same make and everything will fall back into sync again.
I think one of the problems with aftermarket LED indicators is; from what I've read, diodes are hard to test & usually we don't know how many are in each unit, or if there is already a resistor inside, without taking it to pieces. COB lamps I don't know about. Typical stuff on eBay is rarely described with any technical accuracy or know how. In theory as suggested by others above, you might need a 20 ohm resistor each side at the front but for whatever reason, ended up with a 68ohm to get into stable sub 120 flashes per min with my units. IIRC the original fronts were 3.1w each side. Part of the reason I went LED is that after the original bulbs failed, I struggled to find rear bulbs that would make the lamp in the dash work. The indicators worked, but the dash didn't which was aggravating after a while & potentially dangerous.
Yep thanks WC Paul. I hadn't really thought of that. Doh! I'll have to examine them more closely to see if diodes have failed. I was thinking this morning I might have to replace the fronts anyway since I noticed one is a bit loose & I don't think the mounting can be repaired.
Environmentalist: "I insist that all modern vehicles are fitted with super-efficient LEDs!" Manufacturer: "Ok. Btw, do you still want a click-click noise?" Environmentalist:"Of course I do!" Manufacturer: "Righto. Ok fellas, where are those resistors?"
