1200 DVT Lowering The Front End

Yep. Works.

 

I've done this to my 11 plate Mut.
Dropped yokes by 8mm.
I drop the yokes on all bikes where I've found steering to be a bit on the slow side. Conversely, raising the rear will have a similar effect but not always.

Naturally it all comes down to feel and if the bike will allow/accept such changes.

Small amounts to begin with and carry on until you reach your preferred feeling/setting etc

 

I've done it on several tall bikes and if within reason it's no problem. Also, if possible I lower the rear by the same amount. But I think 12 mm is no big deal by itself on the front.

 

Wonder if this has an even more “crushing of the nuts” feeling to the seat , by dropping the front end.....

 

headstock stand, or couple of strong mates

Actually, if you undo the clip ons and drop yo the level you want, then tighten, that *should* stop it falling all the way

 

I did my old Triumph Tiger 1050 Sport and just did one leg at a time. Measured and marked them using tape then just loosened one side at a time. Worked fine. I’d lowered my rear using Lust Racing drop links and the steering had slowed right down. Dropped the front and found it great again.

 

On a DVT, it lower the rear yo7 can just add a link or two and push the wheel back. Note it makes the Bike longer so affects handling, but then dropping the front does too

 

You can loosen the forks bolts and there's enough friction to keep the front end from crashing down. After loosening get behind handlebars and press firmly down. Use a ruler to get even. If you need to fine tune one side you can take a wood block on the top clamp and bang with hammer. Or if you went too far use the wood and hammer on the top of the fork to bring it up. You can put something under the sump guard as a Jack or block just for safety.

 

You can loosen the forks bolts and there's enough friction to keep the front end from crashing down. After loosening get behind handlebars and press firmly down. Use a ruler to get even. If you need to fine tune one side you can take a wood block on the top clamp and bang with hammer. Or if you went too far use the wood and hammer on the top of the fork to bring it up. You can put something under the sump guard as a Jack or block just for safety.

 

I’m going to give this a go. Did it to previous bikes (FZS1000 & Tuono) both bikes steered quicker as a result of the change.

I’m not trying to get the Multi to steer quicker but change the pitch in theory puts more weight over the front and should take away a little bit of ‘twitchiness’!

Or have I got that totally wrong?

 

Will make it more twitchy and unstable on fast roads. But turn quicker, potentially, which some may find feels ‘twitchy’. Example would be ride a ZX7R and a ZXr400 back to back: the 400 turns in really quickly and can feel too sharp for some riders.

Give it a go: takes 10 min and you can always put it back

 

Will it not upset the Skyhook. As in the bike has a type of gyro & knows when it is level to the earth. Lower front then its not level any more. Just a thought.

 

Good point. Although I’m not sure if works on angle bias, ie front/rear shift, more on lean angle and suspension travel.

 

All this talk of ride height, and twitchiness and beating the crap out the bike with hammers and bits of wood ? Having read this thread, is it not something Ducati themselves have thought about quite a bit more than forum folk ?? Think I'll leave mine well alone, especially, as @Steviegtr suggested, the skyhook may be upset ? Its one thing to simply adjust the preload on a bike, but when folk start messing with geometry on the basis of a "I'm not sure", then I remain sceptical.

 

Nice quote out of context. You started reporting for the BBC or writing articles in the Daily Mail?

 

Too easy bradders

 

Ok, let's all put our exhaust baffles, stock seats, tires, and muffs on because Ducati thought about it quite a bit before forum folk?