Hello everybody! Today I was going to wake my monster from its winter hiatus. I turn the ignition key, and it lights up, and starts up pretty easy. I turn it off after a while, but when I turn the key back on, it is totally dead. I try to turn the key on and off a few times, nothing. The relay under the seat responds though. Suddenly, when I turn the key, it lights up again, and I can start. I drive a few minutes, and it dies. This repeats itself a few times. Also - when I turn the lights on, it dies. I have a hard time finding a pattern though. Any thoughts on what this might be? I think I shall pull the left hand side switches off and give them a good cleaning up and see if that helps, other than that - I am clueless. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
you have got the right idea - keep working your way through all power-related connectors in the hunt for light or heavy corrosion - even the battery contacts can be the culprit.
Thank you for the answer! I'll start working my way through. Any suggestions on where to start? Are there any spots that are more sensitive for corrosion?
there is one favorite related to starting only (so probably not an issue here yet) and that is the tiny plug that is located on the starter solenoid. It can fall out all on it's own with no corrosion in sight, or it can go intermittently open circuit due to light corrosion within. The starter lead where it connects to the starter motor has a rubber boot over it from new and corrosion can begin here unnoticed and get pretty heavy as water/moisture can be trapped within the boot. There is a black 2 into 1 connector block which sits close to the battery and forms part of the battery lead positive route to solenoid etc - this can get corroded enough to cut all power as you have described - ditto large fuse/fuse holder body. Don't forget to check actual battery connections/starter switch/engine stop switch/sidestand switch plus inline connector etc) Just remembered, (oops) - the search function on this Forum has been upgraded recently so could be a great help if correct key words are entered.
Even though the main (yellow) relay maybe clicking, it might not be making good contact so that sometimes it works and sometimes not. I had this exact problem on my 916. As a temporary solution I took the cover off the relay and cleaned the (corroded) contacts and it was fine but a new relay is only around a fiver and it's worth keeping a spare anyway...
Allright, it's alive! The relay-cleaning sure did the trick. Thanks a lot for all great help-this seems to be a really great forum! Regarding a new/spare relay: do you happen to have an ebay-link? Thanks again guys!
I got one from a local motor factor and then also got one from a Ducati dealer so that I have spare. You need to be careful to get the right type though as although it is a 5-contact it is not a the common type of changeover relay with NO and NC contacts, rather it has 2 sets of NO contacts. The one from the motor factor was around a fiver and the genuine Ducati part a couple of quid more IIRC.
Hi Dukedesmo. Thanks for the info! As you implied, I am having a hard time finding these relays at a reasonable prize. Kinda weird of Ducati using this kind of relay anyway if you ask me. Do you have any thoughts on why they used this type of relay?
Would guess because they wanted 2 outputs; one to the ignition and one to the fuse box? My local moto factor had one, although I had to root around to find it. It seems to be an uncommon variant. To be fair to Ducati their replacement wasn't too expensive and as my original lasted around 10 years I can't really complain.
12V Relays - General Someone tell the OP which one he wants.......I would just grab the first 5 pole one I saw....... AL
Ask Dukedesmo??...........I can't work out the diagram and I'm normally good at bike and car electrics............maybe I'm too knackered.
