You'll have to humour me in this thread, just don't pick on me :Arghh: I passed my test on a Suzuki Bandit and that's the only bike I've ever ridden, until now. I've just been out on my Monster 796 for the first time and had a few complete newbie questions as compared to the Bandit, it's a completely different ride. Slow speeds, up to 20-25mph, I was changing from 1st up to second just after setting off on the Bandit as it would be lumpy in 1st until I switched to 2nd gear and then it was fine. But on the Monster if I change up to 2nd below 30mph it's quite jerky. Is this down to the type of engine the bike has? Is it better to just leave it in 1st a lot longer and use 2nd from 30mph+? Or do you need to use the clutch whilst moving in 2nd? I know you can change the front/rear sprocket to increase the revs which apparently gives a smoother ride but I'd rather learn on the bike as is before changing anything like that. Thanks
Forgot to say, is mpg effected much by riding around at 3k then 5k. Or with the bike feeling a bit lumpy low down effect it?
It's normal on the newer monsters. I have a monster 796 and it was jerky at low speeds. you can either do the sprocket change or go down the upgraded ECU route. I have a free flowing set of SC project cans and the MWR filter and power up kit, so I had my ECU reflashed to match the upgrades. Bikes really good now down low about town. Hope this helps. the easiest way is to buy some termi's with the matching DP ECU and off you go! Hope this helps Tom!!
Is riding round in first gear fine for them then? Just coming from a car driver where you only ever use first for setting off and the Bandit I learnt on was the same.
I have an M1100 but would think that riding in 1st up to 30mph is a bit excessive. Normally I will shift pretty quickly to 2nd after pulling away and typically will be in 3rd for normal around town in traffic. Welcome.
The difference in the remap will make it okay to be in 3rd at 30mph. Before I had mine done I had to be in 2nd at 30mph as it was too jerky. the jerkiness is caused by the euro emissions testing just where you want to be pootling about town. you shouldn't have to be in first too much just for pulling away unless your out for a thrash!!
Thanks! I'll see how I get on with the bike then and might try the 14T sprocket or some termi cans when I fancy spending near 20% of the bikes cost on an exhaust
Where from? I've not seen any on eBay. The odd cans come up for sale new for £750 but that's without an ECU.
I have just done the 14 tooth front and totally different bike, much more rideable now not snatchy at all very smooth in all gears around town. I have full carbon Arrows cans with removable baffles, really nice deep tone not overly loud ( take the baffles out and it makes your teeth rattle ) and impeccably made / finished. Google B&C EXPRESS have a look at Arrow Exhausts they will not break the bank.
If all you have to do is remove the sprocket cover and then the sprocket comes off easy enough without having to undo anything else it's a half hour job.
On some of them you have to split the chain as you can't slide the sprocket off the spindle then it becomes a pain unless you have the right tools and then it may only be an extra 15mins to do.
Looks like it's not as straight forward as the 696! Guide to changing Front sprocket in Ducati Monster 796 from 15T to 14T Where can I get a chain adjustment tool from?
