I'm finding the 848 Evo a bit weedy, especially in the mid range. Whats the best route to more power/torque? I've put some race cans on it but not chipped. My last bike was a 2007 GSXR750. I thought this bike was going to be at least as fast but it's not.
You may need to look at your apex/line through the corners. No offense, but a difference in line can make a huge difference. I've out dragged bikes with 70bhp more with a better line through a corner.
Thanks for the replies guys, although not quite what I wanted. I was hoping someone would say get a Powercommander or something like that. I knew someone would say get an 1198, which is a possibility but reading on here, they seem less reliable and quite a bit more expensive. Good point about the line. Very true! But I raced for 11 years and do have a good line. Yeah beat faster bikes on the track all the time but still slower than I was on the Gixer. At Spa earlier in the month my best lap was 3:10. My mate on his 999 was 3:03. I've done 2:59 on the Gixer. It's definitely slower on the fast bits. What about this valve in the exhaust system, is it just to reduce noise? Cheers.
Buy a faster bike. Or if it’s on track, learn to ride it faster make your time up in different places! It really is very rewarding
Not sure makes a massive difference but do you have the race Ecu and I would consider getting yours dyno’d as mine and little ladies was definitely not noticeably slower than gixxer 750’s we rode with when we had 848’s
Assuming you’re not racing now... Which was more fun? That’s literally the only thing that matters. Learning a new riding style to chase down that Suzuki time will be far better value than any mechanical upgrade
I'm no slouch. Club champion and 3rd in national championship. See pic of tyres after Spa attached. But I can try cornering faster. Don't want to throw it down the road again . Would like to make bike faster if I can. Do not have race ECU. Can the standard ECU be remapped?
If it helps, I had CJS based outside Bristol map mine (2010 evo). Akro cans, performance filter. First dyno as was 128hp. He flashed with DP chip first, 132hp. He spent the day mapping, and adjusted the timing to some special one he uses, and came out with map saying 139hp. Genuinely chalk and cheese to ride, although it stank of fuel around town. If it’s possible for you, wherever you live, get a custom map done. Not a PC tune, but map the ecu. Not a flash of someone else’s either: yours. £500 cost.
Agree with bradders here - mine smelt like a bloody lawn mower round town, but I has no issues once I opened it up, hence my comment about dyno but if yours is not running right doesn’t matter wether your Rossi or Miss Daisy your still going to be slow. That would be my first call
depends how much you wana spend really, hi comp pistons, ported heads, new cams, balanced bottom end, ti rods.... could prob get you in the 140bhp bracket but that would be about £4000 worth of work. as mentioned buy a 1098/1198.
Great thanks. I'm not too far from Bristol. I might well go for that. I discovered tester day that both my fuel tank breather and overflow are blocked. Obviously if it can't get petrol as quick as it wants due to a vacuum in the tank, it will effect performance. I haven't investigated where the block is yet but is it possible tank swell has closed off the internal tubes?
Personally, I wouldn't go spending a load of money of upgrading perfoamance, just sell it and buy the bigger bike. You'll not see any money back from performance upgrades on your 848 and although you may not feel like going through the chew on of changing bikes, it's the sensible option.
There were (maybe still are) big bore conversions available for the 848. But, as others have said, It'll be cheaper to get a bigger bike, if you really think you've outgrown it.
It’s more the comment about being way slower than a gixer 750. Round track maybe, but on the road I never had issues with either of my 848s keeping up with anything mid-sports based for speed. A 1000 would just piss off into the distance tho on straights!
At the bottom of the tank are 2 vent connectors and they corrode - a quick drill out of those should resolve the problem. Assuming that the valve is working, the exhause valve is only used below 4000rpm to keep the noise down. I have removed the servo, lockwired the valve open and put in a bypass connector (to fool the ecu) and that does help the low end but makes no difference at the top (again, assuming the valve and servo works) If your ECU and cans are matched then even just getting the trim ajusted correctly can make a big difference. I assume that you have done the valves? HTH T
