Hi, I'm new to the forum after purchasing and collecting my 900SS this Wednesday. I spent yesterday removing the tank and panels and then read a few posts regarding the renovation of these bikes and came across the cracked frame issue. I obviously did things in the wrong order because on examining the frame I can see hairline cracks in the usual reported place. I can repair the cracks myself as I have a TIG welder, but would appreciate any pointers for doing this and any information regarding sourcing the bolt in brace I have seen in threads - I understand the chap who made these is no longer in business? Does anyone have one surplus to requirements that I could buy? On close inspection the condition of the engine and the frame in the vicinity of the engine mounts is not good, and whilst I can remove and refinish the engine cases and possibly clean up the cylinders and head in situ, do you think this is really an engine out job? I'm about to do a compression test to get an idea of the condition of the engine, it runs quite nicely with no smoke, but I've not ridden it. The indicated mileage is 11,250, however previous to the last MOT in 2021 I have no history after 2005, when it changed owners via a dealer @ 10,900 miles. It's interesting that the road tax on the bike expired two months after that sale, so possibly it has been stored somewhere until the previous owner bought it as a non-runner in 2021. Any help and advice will be much appreciated. Tony
Welcome Tony, Never seen cracks on a 97..Too many wheelies? I thought they were all sorted by then. You may want to consider welding a brace across at the same time as the repair. Personally I'd be dropping the engine to redo the cosmetics..so much easier, and tbh simple to do. You should also check the swingarm for cracks around the pivot, unlikely as they were improved by this year. The main weakness for this model is the valve guides that can wear prematurely..as in super fast.. I've put up with oil consumption with my 97 for a good number of years (guides worn at 5k miles) but finally the work has to be done. They are really good bikes for the road if sorted though, and fun at less than crazy speeds! Cheers Grant
Hi Tony and welcome into our mad house I have a soft spot for an SS It will be great to watch you restoring the old girl
Hi Grant, I knew about the cracks in the swingarm, so I checked that. There was a piece in Practical Sportsbikes a few months ago about restoring these bikes and the cracks in the frame was not mentioned as a problem, but the swingarm was (also the valve guides). I'm looking to use it on track days as well as the road, so it needs to be right - I also didn't notice that the forks aren't adjustable, so not sure if that is positive or negative!? Cheers Tony
I think it's going to take longer than I anticipated, but, as a positive, the wiring loom looks good and the motor has good compression (cold). I've started dismantling and discovered that the rear wheel is a 4.5" (I guess from a 750?) but the seller gave me a 5.5" wheel too. The tyres on all of these wheels are 2003 vintage, which supports my theory that she's not been used for some time... Tony
So, this "random" invoice now makes sense; It's the last document in the history file until it was MOT'd in 2021 by the last owner. I'm assuming it was never fitted? Or if it was it cracked again within 1000 miles.....
Mine was first registered in 1998, but I assumed it was made in 1997. Not sure if that makes a difference?
Hi Tony This will make you a really nice bike and you’ll find these are really easy but engaging bikes to both ride and work on My 93 build 900ss suffered from frame fractures at the same spot, l had it welded after drilling small 1.5mm stress stops at the end of each crack, you’ll find that their probably longer at the underside of the tube !! I have a frame brace on mine now but I’d be wary of welding one in as there is no way of installing the air box with it fitted Removing the engine is really easy and even makes sense to do it if your doing a valve reshim and it’ll make a paint refresh and belt service really easy Your bike might have been an American market one as a lot of the half faired ones were a lower suspension spec for that market and the reflectors on the fork legs are US spec
My ‘97 hasn’t succumbed to cracked frame syndrome it did however fall foul to a rotting tank and leaking fork seals The engine casings are the standard flaky finish but the full fairing does a good job of mostly hiding this eyesore Tank repaired, forks re-chromed and carbs cleaned it now runs well and is a totally engaging joy to ride Good luck with the fettling
Hi, I would take the engine out and do the headstock welding and engine cosmetics whilst it is apart. As mentioned above, looks like it was a US spec model with half fairing and lower spec forks with reflectors. The non-adjustable forks are pretty dire when pushed even moderately hard - no matter what springs or oil you use, as the shim stacks are just a compromised design and very difficult to get right for comp and reb damping at the same time. The Showa adjustable forks can be made to work far better with just springs spacers and oil, and can be picked up at very reasonable cost (used on several other models) Some add maxton / nitron etc to the non-adjustables but that is an expensive option. As well as what you have found so far, drop the oil, remove the coarse strainer and check there are no aluminium “nail clippings” in there to give you a bit more to do while the engine is out (oil gallery plug backing out). It is all fixable with time and interest, without too much money. Once you have it sorted, you will know it inside out, and love it for it’s strengths and it’s foibles. I have a 900ss for the road, and one for the track. Great bikes.
hi and welcome to the forum (ie asylum) looks like a great project thread starting here seems like all the usual issues there nothing that isn't sortable though with all the knowledge and advice on here it should be sorted in no time
Hi Bumpstart, Good to know the frame is fixable! Any idea where I could get a bolt in brace? It may be that I have to weld in some stiffening gussets so that I can still remove the airbox if I can't find one. Here is the original purchase invoice to someone from Battersea. What is the "CR" suffix; does it provide a clue to the origins of the bike?
Ah - see my later post with the invoice - so did Alien motorcycles import it? Hense their name "Alien" ???
Hi Tony and welcome to the insane asylum. My 900 is a US spec CR like yours, and also suffers with the cracking frame syndrome. I recomend the bolt on frame brace to get around the airbox issues. On the modification front if not already done increase the rear sprocket to 40 or 41 teeth as this will make around town riding a lot easier, also if you can find one the rear shock off the 900 ie is a worth while mod as this rises the rear and quickens the stearing, they are a bit on the slow side in the stearing dept.
I'm glad I'm not the only one I'll deffo change the shock, also on the lookout for UK spec forks but nothing on eBay at the moment. Any idea where I can get a bolt on frame brace please? Tony
Hi Tony Sorry but I don’t know where you can get a frame brace, but when I repaired mine (must be over 10 years ago now) I got it from a member on here. With the frame repair I stop drilled the cracks then ground small grooves along the cracks before welding then dressing them back to round and over plated them with a gusset to mount the tank bracket. I honestly think that’s enough to prevent further damage but as I had got a brace I fitted that as well. If you’re going to do similar work be aware that there is next to no room to fit the air box even when standard!!!
