Afternoon all, following installation of a DP slipper clutch on my 03 999s, how long should I expect it to last before replacement is considered? Any maintenance procedures i should be aware of over and above that of a normal dry clutch? i ride at a moderate pace and hope to throw a few trackdays into the mix this year any comments welcome, cheers
What combination of basket and plate materials have you fitted ? Aluminium basket with aluminium friction plates probably 8-10000 miles before you need to change the basket which will probably wear out before the friction plates. Steel basket with aluminium friction plates, probably a similar mileage before the tangs on the friction plates have had it. Steel basket with steel friction plates maybe 15000 miles before the friction material is too thin. The slipper function relies on a small amount of high melting point grease for lubrication. Lubrication and friction material dust don't mix and a routine clean and re-grease depending on mileage is a good idea but at least once a year. With the right tools and experience it's only a 30 minute job. Andy
Cheers Andy. I've a feeling it's steel on steel, just texted mechanic to confirm. Re the dust situation, should I then consider running a closed clutch cover?
I'm in 2 minds, I have an RS clutch cover that has broad slots cut into it on my track bike but an OE closed cover on my 1098R. Open covers provide less protection in the event of an accident, expose the workings of the clutch to the elements and are noisier but allow a flow of air through it. A closed cover provides the best protection and is marginally quieter but will require more frequent cleaning. If you don't ride in all weathers and you have a tarty pressure plate, there is no harm in showing it off. Andy
So i just got bike back the other day. Took it out for a spin (a very short one albeit) and didn't really notice any "slippage" as such on the clutch on downshifts. Being pretty green to these devices, I thought I would notice an almost seamless transaction between gears on downshifts - perhaps this isn't the case? I also found that gear changes were quite clunky (moreso than with the original clutch pack) and that I had to be really positive on shifts to make them successful. I've contacted my man who suggested bleeding the clutch, which I'll get around to tomorrow. will this help? TBH I'd have expected that to be completed already having given him approx £1500 for a crankshaft bearing repair and slipper clutch fitment in past 6 months or so. any feedback welcome Dave
i stand to be corrected but: Slipper will only kick in at the point on a downshift where the rear wheel would normally lock. So, breaking hard, whacking down through the gears into 2nd, let the clutch out, engine breaking kicks in as revs shoot up, instead of the rear wheel chattering, the slipper kicks in. I only get it to work or have ever needed one when really going for it. Clutch bleed is from the clutch master to the slave unit. You can do anything to/with the engine and not need to touch it apart from unbolting the slave from the side of the engine. You would not need to bleed it. I change my clutch fluid every year, 10 minute job once you get used to it and only a few £'s.
If you are not noticing there are two options, you are not creating the riding condition where the clutch will kick in or its operation is seamless. You might be able to feel a slight pulse through the clutch lever. Gear change issue could be as has been suggested, a need to bleed the system or a poorly adjusted chain tension. Andy
Cheers Cream Revenge; yeah I've bled clutch before previously and I know there's not much to it - I'm right in saying that doing that could lessen the effort needed to change through gears? or am I?
it may make the clutch engage/disengage more as your pulling of the lever will result in more movement of the clutch push-rod rather than squashing the air in the tube.
Change down at high revs/speed and dump the clutch....If the back wheel locks up it aint working...:Woot:
