Newbe buying 1000DS...advice please

Great motor, some find them very comfy (I didn't, too much pressure on my lower back), having ridden and owned a few similar type bikes this s closet to a sports bike in fast corners, nice and stable and rides ace. Thing is like a big supermoto if you want it to beSide panels fly off if you don't put them back on perfectly...so a triple check is a minimum requirement! Had mine a year, 5k or so miles and it was always reliable other than sometimes the revs would stick high when hot, this it was linked to a throttle position thingy (cable not sensor)

 

Don't think there were too many issues, all I recall was the fuel sensor/tank range was always iffy but I think resetting the trip and counting the miles would be best. Some clocks have been replaced due to moisture so check mileage against servicing/MOT's.Air-cooled so not much to go wrong, check for service history is a must, belts have been changed plus rockers (although not a big problem on these lumps), check forks and shock for leaks, if it's got Ohlins especially so.As has been said it's a big twin things vibrate off so check for mullered nuts and bolts

 

Service record and general appearance is about it.It's a great piece of kit with superb handling and tons of torque.Preferably get a '06 on with updates on the side stand length/screen size/mirrors.While I would have liked the S version with Ohlins, in reality the standard suspension is fine.Used the one I had for tours of East Europe and elsewhere, it was superb in the mountain passes. For big miles I used an Airhawk seat cover to soften the seat.Ref. Bradders' comment about the side panels, he's right. The key to that is to make sure that the front lower panel clip is actually clipped properly then all is well or air will get under it and off she comes. Happened to me once and never again after I knew how it happened. The problem that can occur with tank range is that you should fuel up slowly to allow air to get out of the tank extension under the seat or a fill up with not be as complete as you think.I've noticed that prices are higher than they were, I guess people have got used to the front styling and appreciate what a good bike it is.

 

Not much seems to go wrong if std tbh, as already said with any older bike service history is important (Q those who disagree leaping in!) so you know its likley to have been maintained ok. The clocks fog and also if pressed too hard can lose the LCD part. Replacement mega versus the cost of old bike and from memory only really affects it at night. So most tend to leave alone. Beware cold riding; this is the only bike that nearly spat me off pulling a bit quicker out of a junction to get into a flow of traffic after a couple of miuntes riding, its all the low down torq, but could easily have been the Pirellis. Flakey paint also seems the norm, altho quite a few I know had replaced unr warranty. Not sure if there were any other recalls

 

Maybe he's looking more for advice in finding a good one more as well as whether to buy or not.

 

Nope, but seems to have developed that way :smile:

 

Nt many problems and a pretty underrated bike. Only real issues were with early, 04 ish, valve guides. Watch for smoke when it's up to temp. Tbh, if you can stretch to one, the 1100 is a good bet. Wet clutch and fuelling is better.

 

Best B-road bike I've ever owned. Don't find it comfy at all, though, and mine's got the comfy seat...

 

Owned a 1000 S Multi for three years, a period which ends tomorrow. My advice after three years and 24,000 miles is don't buy one, but if you must:

# On the S model, check the Ohlins forks for leaks around the seals. The life of the seals is around 2 years
# Check the clocks work, they're expensive to replace and don't have condensation. Press the A button when you start it to bring up the error codes.
# Check there's no paint flaking around the fuel filler, this is a sign the tank is expanding and that is bad news.
# Check the sidestand does not pitch the bike over at an excessive angle. Mine has broken twice, via the bolt shearing inside the engine casing. If you can get one with a centrestand, do so.
# Check the bike hasn't taken on water into the fuel breather by blowing into the black grommet under the filler cap with a straw from a juice carton. You should hear bubbling in the tank
# Scottoilers help the chain last longer
# Pre 2005 bikes have weaker rear subframes. Check the date of manufacture by looking on the underside of the pillion seat or the inside of the battery cover panel.
# 04 ones and earlier have poorer mirrors, seats and stands than my 2005 one had. God knows what they must be like.
# Great bike for pillions as well as riders, handling is superb

In the years I've owned mine I've had to replace

- fuel level indicator (inside the tank)
- the petrol tank
- couple of batteries
- rebuilt shock
- fork seals (twice)
- sidestand (twice)

amongst other things. I really, really wouldn't. I'm trading mine in tomorrow, currently sitting in the office waiting on the RAC as the bleeder won't start.

 

Mine starts first time every time:wink:

 

Lucky you.

 

So did mine

 

I've now been waiting on the RAC for almost three hours. I'm not really feeling this.