Hi everyone from Derbyshire, This is my first time on the forum and I'm still trying to get the hang of it so please bear with me. This summer I bought a 2004 MS 1000ds and all was going well until I noticed condensation inside the instrument cluster so following advice on another forum I removed it, seperated it, cleaned the circuit board with electrical cleaner and dried it out by bringing it indoors for a few days. I put it back together and plugged it back in and all was working great. But then again I noticed condensation so I followed the same steps and when I put it back on the bike and turned the key on " Absolutely Nothing " just dead. Not even the immobilser flashes. I'm now at a loss as I think I've double checked everything. Is there possibly anyone else out there that's had the same problem ? Any advice will be very welcome. Kind Regards,
Sorry to hear Glyn, you've gone straight to one of the main concerns on your Multi. I don't know if you found the dedicated Forum?* but you will find many threads on that Forum and here about ways to tackle the condensation and hopefully a few concerning your sudden lack of power. Bar carefully checking you haven't disturbed anything inside and re-plugging main connector a few times, I've got no suggestions. *http://www.multistrada.net/index.php
Welcome to the Forum Glyn sorry to read about your problem. I’ve never had a multistrada (yet) so cant offer any advice.
welcome glyn, try doing it again? But leave a hole so that the air-temperature can be equalized. Or semi large enough to fire a air-dryer into it. Using large grommets to plug it up most of the time.
Hi all, Thanks for your quick replies, I have tried most of your suggestions but still no power to dash. I think it may be goosed. Does anyone know of a reputable company that repairs these types of Ducati instruments ? I found one called Autotronics in Leicester who state they can do all sorts of wizardry with these dashes which seems to be the nearest to me. Has anyone heard or used them ? Kind Regards, Glyn.
"Same problem with Dash, missing bars, indicator lamp. Immobiliser doesn't switch off so can't start the bike (think its related). It will start eventually after coming back to it a good few times. Might give the Scorpian place a shout http://www.scorpio-electronics.co.uk/contact.php. Opened the dash and noticed someone was at it before. Might try fix myself first. If I fix myself I'll post the solution. Okay, I know this is late but here goes ... and I fixed the problem! Open the dash, easy peasy lemon squeezy, use a kitchen knife and carefully press in the center of the clips and twist, there are a few of these around the perimeter of the plastics. open up the plastics and take the pcb out. You have access t,o only one side so inspect this for corrosion, it might not be that noticeable so use a multi-meter on suspect tracks of the pcb and check for opens. As it happened, my problems were on the other side of the pcb. To access this do the following ... There are 2 black screws, take these off. There is a silverclip holding a ribbon cable, pull this off. Next you need to tale the needle off the spindle, use a kitchen fork to prize off the needle, but put a credit card under the fork so you don't mark the dials. Right, next is to work your way around the white plastic clips to release the PCB. Don't worry about the LCD connector as it is a z-carbon type (like a piece of rubber) it will stay with the LCD and plastic. Okay, now inspect for open tracks. Most likely thats all the issue will be. I found 4 open tracks on mine (all around the edges). I repaired them all and cleaned the rubber connector with a lint free cloth and alcohol, same with the pcb pads it contacts. To repair a track you need a soldering iron. Carefully scrap back the coating on the track on both sides of the open. Add solder to these and place a piece of wire over and melt the solder. Do the same for the other side. Putting the clocks back together again its the opposite of taking them apart. However when putting the need back on, wind the spindle anti-clockwise until it stops, them press the needle on at the 0rpm mark (although thee is no zero there). Your all done!! My immobilizer issue was nothing to do with the clocks. The issue was that the transponder in the key was not being read correctly. It is read by an antenna coil which is housed in the plastic that surrounds the ignition key. There was a break in the antenna wire where it and the igition switch wire are tie wrapped to the frame. The tie wrap cut into the cable. Symptom manifests itself as an intermittent problem then a hard fail. Solder the wires together and the problem solved. Note: In case this happens to you and you get stuck, learn your electronic code (from the owners card) and learn the procedure in your user manual to do an immobilizer by-pass (has to be done for each time the key is inserted.) Its a saver until you fix the root of your problem. Some other experiences with clocks. 1. All second hand clocks must be decoded prior to fitting to your bike. 2. Decoded clocks can be programmed with your red key. 3. New clocks are already decoded and need to be programmed with you red key. 4. If you have second had clocks, data can be transferred your original to the second hand ones. Thats it - hope it helps. I recommend you fix the clocks yourself!! Ray. " Hi Glyn The above is a quote lifted from the Multistrada Forum I linked above from 8 years ago by Ray Lloyd from Ireland (Scorpio-electronics link now dead) which may be of use if you are brave. If you have the time, there are plenty more invaluable posts dotted around the Forums (as you are probably aware). Was there any evidence of corrosion or tracks damaged when you dismantled your dash? I had to replace mine completely as someone had fitted the unit from a 620 bike which isn't totally compatible (bike ran, but poorly). They turn up s/hand occasionally but usually £500* plus for dash/ECU/ignition lock/keys. All I will add is make sure you are not "throwing good money after bad" for want of a better phrase, it's hard to get a quote from a repairer and it's quite understandable from a "Catch 22" point of view but I have read of many spending £200 plus only to have instrument returned with a "sorry, can't fix" note. I had a dilemma with spending an additional £500* on a bike that only cost £1500 to start with when I couldn't be certain that there weren't other electrical problems. I didn't fancy breaking the bike or selling it at a big loss so took a gamble and it payed off. I believe there are at least two people on here who could help more - Good Luck. EDIT:- Scorpio Electronics, Kings Lynn Norfolk - https://www.scorpio-electronics.co.uk/
Hi again, I think I have tried all your suggestions but I will give it another go. I could not see any damaged tracks when I cleaned it last time but to be honest I wasn't really looking closely. Unfortunately when I purchased the bike the owner did not have the code card, so I don't have the code. I do have a spare ECU that came with the bike as an aftermarket exhaust and air filter have been fitted so I might get the immobilizer removed from it and try it. It seems Scorpio Electronics web site is still up and running so I may try them. Thanks Again Glyn.
Welcome! Normally we ask for a picture of your bike near a bin however, in the case of a Multi DS, a picture of the bin on its own will be just fine.
