Last time I was out on the multi, when going for it the engine struggled for power when reaching the higher revs. Could this be the exhaust flapper thing sticking?
Thanks, I'll try that. Just been to Ducati leeds to get it booked in. The guy said it should have a warning message on the dash but I don't recall seeing one?
My 2015 DVT did this a few weeks back ... i was pretty sure it was the exhaust servo flap .... i checked and all was moving OK.... i took the plunge and removed the flap by trimming the welds holding the screws and removed. Went out for a ponder and made a big diffrence even pops n bangs on over run. Really recommend this.
Wasn't there an earlier thread that said it needs the flap to gain back pressure on the standard map or am I dreaming this
Watch this video. Brock is a master at explaining tuning. Do view the whole thing but pay attention to the start of the 7:20 mark. Enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=MzhlPRSoMho&feature=emb_logo
Great video thank you .... so he confirms that a stuck valve saps power exactly how mine was before removal. Now time to save for that full system.
Brock Performance is the only firm in the world that offers ECU specific tuning components, mapping and also fine tuning support that's sold with their exhaust systems. No other manufacturer does this. All they offer is plumbing and you're on your own after that. I've reached-out to Brock Davidson's sales manager for Ducati exhaust tuning components. Unfortunately, their "tuning" focus is mostly Japanese sportbikes and BMW S1000RR...at least for now. About a full system: I'm not sure why you'd want a (loud) full system on a touring bike but to each his own. Make sure you budget for proper maps to match. That's what's really important. IMHO, just removing the exhaust valve which can seize is good enough. But that's just me.
Totally agree DarR the standard pipe is fine and love the sound, the full system was to eliminate the cat as i hear it runs so much better but to use DB killer.... thanks for the infomation it was really handy.
WELL......I removed the the flap by grinding off the screw heads with my little dremmel, have not done or touched anything else, valve spline still works as it should BUT........ now have the engine warning light on, had a dealer plug bike in & fault shows exhaust valve fault ( they did not remove exhaust to physical look ) they suggest a eliminator that they can supply & fit
Did you tell your dealer what you'd done BabyD? I didn't try freeing mine off as I've got it booked in for them to sort it out. I didn't want to void any warranty by fiddling with it. Mine won't get much past 5k revs. That's fine when I'm just having a steady ride but pants when wanting a quick overtake etc
There was nothing wrong with the valve, just a preventative measure, the light was not on before but is now & no I didn't tell them
You will need an eliminator to turn the light off, or a spring on the cable. There are lots of threads about this. Eliminator is easiest, if you have a 1200 or DVT I have one you can buy, it’s a simple plug in. Send me a PM if you want it
This valve is in a dirty location and hidden from view. It's no surprise that the first time it's looked at is the time it is suspected of failing. Maybe the right fix is to pull the covers, maybe the silencer too, each season and clean and lube the thing.
I'm not sure people are understanding what is happening..... the valve has never caused an issue & no engine light was on, as a preventative measure I removed the flap leaving the spline, cable & spring untouched & fully working.....but some how the bike brain knows that the flap is no longer there & giving a engine warning light you can even hear it testing the flap when turning the ignition on
BabyD that is wierd... I cut mine out 1 month ago and not had any issues .... i had 2no options 1st was to remove the flap (what I did) 2nd was to install the Duc EE @ £50. Go withe the 2nd option and get a reset.
I give the externals of my flapper valve a clean and smear of copper-ease every time I change the rear tyre as the silencer and heat shield are removed to get the rear wheel out. This is at least once a year.
