Oem Silencer Construction

I cored my standard cans on my S4RS monster. Drilling the rivets is just the start! There's a weld just inside that needs to be sliced, before it comes apart. I used a Drevil? Think that's what it's called. There's a great blow by blow thread here on this site, though I can't recall at the moment who posted it... No doubt someone will be along shortly...
Good luck, it's a really good mod to increase the quality of sound and just take time, not loads of ££.

 

Don't know If it's the same as my hypermotard

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/chopped-exhaust.20527/

 

Come to the think of it, the post might have been on the Ducati monster forum 'ukmoc'. I was an active member there prior to the multi.

 

I did mine on my carby ss. The rivets in the end cap do indeed hold it on to the innards. Get the rivet heads off with a cold chisel or drill them out. I drilled mine. Then tap the end cap off using a chisel. It's solid stainless steel so will take a fair bit of abuse without marking. On my SS the sleeve is held on by the mounting bolts. Remove them. Then turn the whole thing upright on to its exposed end. I placed a large socket on the floor and using both hands holding the sleeve slammed the whole thing down on to the socket. After a few slams the sleeve came away from link pipe end.

Then the real fun begins. The insides on an ss are really convoluted. You'll see why it restricts air flow so much. I removed the entire insides. I gutted mine and with some rather neat welding from an exhaust specialist the whole thing was converted to a straight through can.

I cleaned the outer sleeve up with scotchbrite. Remember it's supposed to be satin rather than polished. Then I had them anodised.

They were put back together using nuts welded on the inner end plate so that I can remove the end cap easily if I want to repack them.

 

How bloody time consuming and convaluted all this is...............Buy some end caps; packing and carbon and or ally tube and make your own straight through cans.............I can guarantee they aren't that loud.....See mine in Bikes For Sale.

 

I did mine on the ST2 and then threw them away and bought some GPR exhausts. The modified ones were very noisy ans had a dreadful resonance that threatened to do my ear drums in.

 

There were a couple of reasons for me doing it. Firstly I wanted the bike to look original whilst improving performance. Secondly there's less chance of me falling foul of plod if I've got stock cans which are just a little noisy rather than something which is blatantly aftermarket. Also, once you have the sleeve off there's no more work involved in coring them and rebuilding them as there is in building something from srcratch. In fact it's possibly even easier as you retain the mounting points and end plates, just weld a new section of perf tube in between them after cutting the crap out. I also managed to determine how noisy mine were by specifying the diameter of perf tube. Race cans generally use 2". I went for 1.75". Slightly less noisy.

Once I had mine stripped and gutted I had all the internal welding work done by professional exhaust specialists. The whole job including anodisng cost me less than £200. The cans look like new, sound great and improve performance. The guys I used said that the banging that others may experience is due to not crimping the perf tube at certain points. This crimping forces the gases to bounce around a little and exit the holes in the perf rather than just blowing the gas straight out of the back. This disrupts the pulse effect from the engine.

 

I'll bet that any improved performance is probably in the head of the rider. Many of the experts who make aftermarket cans cannot get more performance out of the engine, but the nicer noise makes people think that they do.
My GPR exhausts were not much more expensive than your work and i have a pair of legal cans that make a fantastic noise and they even have the mounting points in the standard places.
That was on my ST2. For the 848 I would never consider messing around with the standard cans, there is no point, it is not a cheap bike and does not deserve hacking things about to get a cheap job done. In the same vein, I would not buy anything cheap for the bike just to save a bit of cash.

 

I just removed the end caps on my straight through Lazer zorsts, (pulled the outlet cap off the perforated tube) pulled the ally tubes off; then used the mounting plates that were inside and riveted them in excactly the same position on some new carbon fibre tubes (I also reinforced the area where the inner plates are fixed with some stainless steel outer plates.

Repacked them and re-riveted the cans back onto the inlet caps (the inlet caps are welded to the link pipes and the perforated tube) then refitted the outlet end caps........I have to say I was a bit disappointed that they aren't louder, but they look a lot better IMO.

 

Did the "straight-through" mod to the high mount pipes on my '96 SS. Makes a nicer sound now. Here's a pic of what came out and what I replaced it with...

 

I do agree with you up to a point. If you just swap legal cans for straight through race pipes I don't think you will see much improvement. It has to be done as part of a package - improved fuelling, getting the mix right, then getting rid of waste gas as efficiently as possible. I fiited a K&N air filter, dynojet kit, cored cans, then set it all up on a dyno. I got another 6bhp, broader power band, better torque figures. It's smooth and a joy to ride.

 

You must be a much better rider than me then, I would probably not be able to feel the extra 6 bhp on the 83 bhp ST2!

 

The packing material is some kind of wire wool. It's a bit like the stuff that plumbers use for cleaning up pipework prior to soldering. My local exhaust specialist supplied me. They suggested holding it all in place with cling film during assembly. It just burns off later on.