Oil Filter Removal Also Removed The Oil Filter Thread

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Vin73, Apr 12, 2020.

  1. Hi all, just joined up to this site, searched the forum and looking for a bit of advice if possible.

    I've had a Monster 1100 Evo for a few years, not used it much for anything other than engine warm up and short runs in the last 2-3 years. Last full service was by Ducati when I bought it from a Ducati dealer.

    The bike only has 4300 miles on it presently. It's kept in a dry warm garage, looks like the day I bought it and runs sweet when started.

    It has done <500 miles in 3 years. I went to change the oil yesterday. The filter was on very tight, but with the oil filter grips and a good firm grip and progressive pull, it loosened after a few attempts and I slowly and gently unwound it.

    The issue - As the filter came clear of the engine, the thread it should screw and attach to, remained in the filter itself. Pics attached.

    I've read this is a removable thread on a couple of web searches, but I'm sure that thread shouldn't come out when the oil filter is being removed. Or is it a common issue?

    The question is, how do I remove it from the filter without damaging (as it was so tight) and is that part safe to use again on the bike? What should it be torqued to when refitting?

    Also has like a spinning attachment, I can guess what its for, spins to allow equal oil flow and pressure through the filter when the engine is running, but can anyone confirm this?

    Thanks in advance.

    Vince

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    #1 Vin73, Apr 12, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2020
  2. The bypass spring, that flat curved bit, should lift off. Under it there is a hex as part of the filter stub. Grip the filter in a vice and unscrew the fitment with a suitable fitting ring spanner or deep socket.
    You can reuse the parts. Make sure the bypass valve is fitted the same way it came out. Thoroughly clean the threads so they are free of oil, apply Loctite 243, medium strength, and torque the threaded stub up to 42Nm.
     
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  3. Derek is spot on. When you refit the bypass spring, there is a indent in the engine casing to locate it in the correct position. Do a trial fit and look up inside the filter hole... you’ll see how it fits
     
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  4. Great, thanks Derek.
     
  5. Thanks! Ok so I can see the hole, one almost shaped like the bypass spring, the other a small 5-6mm hole. Quick look I can't see exactly how it should line up, but will see how I get on. So its a spring, and is locked in place then...
     
    #5 Vin73, Apr 12, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2020
  6. Ok, I got right underneath and can see the grooves the square end sits within, so that should be straightforward enough to refit, once I get the filter off the thread.
     
  7. The filter was probably overtightened to stop leaks. A common issue IME with current duc filters as they seem to bottom out before a decent seal is made. I've had this on every oil filter change with a duc filter since 2006 1st experienced on my old 999 (that was on so tight as fitted by dealer at previous change it needed a plumbers wrench to get it undone). I've now swapped to using Mahle oil filters and these seal ok without the need for silly tightening torque.
     
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  8. Same here, I use Mahle and never had a problem.
    Steve
     
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  9. Me too. Mahle OC5 from my local motor factor for only £4.14 :)
     
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  10. Just fitted a Ducati filter this afternoon, tightened up to 11Nm as per information on the filter body so wait and see what happens. Had them drip in the past but this is the first one I've fitted and tightened with a filter socket.
     
  11. Ok, so i've only just got back to this. Just refitted the spring and bolt. The squared off bare metal end of the spring is sat in the notches. The black plastic end is covering the circular hole from the engine.

    It is finger tight presently. There is zero "spring" in that piece, it is firmly pressed against the bottom of the engine case. Im sure its fitted right, but for its purpose, doesnt look or sound right if there is zero give just from finger tightening.

    Obviously dont want to make a mistake here, as that could prove expensive. Photo attached to show how it currently looks.

    Any confirmation it is right would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers...


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  12. I had this very issue many years ago.
    The spring can also be fitted the other way around so that the “spring” (free end) part is not pressed up against the case and is therefore free to be a spring.
    I am sorry but I can’t 100% remember which way it goes but I think it goes opposite to what you have done.

    Don’t take my word on this though.

    Sorry to not give a full answer.
     
  13. Thanks for the response. It is definitely on the same way as fitted by the Ducati dealer at the last service.

    If it turned it over, the end that goes between the notches, doesn't sit in the slots and then isn't held in place. That end of the spring is at an angle, and follows the engine casing when it sits between the notches.

    My concern is just how tight the black plastic end is against the small 5-6mm hole it covers. If it is right, its right, I just want to be 100% sure.
     
    #13 Vin73, Apr 19, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2020
  14. I must confess that I've never had to meddle with one of these, they have always remained in place.
    It's hard to see from your photo so I had to enhance it a little to see what way the spring is lying.

    Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 14.49.16.png

    Comparing it with the drawings from the parts lists I'd say it is the wrong way round. I'm sure @nelly can confirm.

    Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 14.50.31.png
     
  15. I seem to remember going through this on another thread and I'm sure the drawing was wrong.
     
  16. You're right, the drawing is wrong. This pic is from the Hyper 1100 evo manual, same engine.
    HYM1100EVO_10_N_9A9_00.75.1.7.jpg
    @Vin73 it's fitted correctly :upyeah:
     
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  17. Thanks Derek, that is how it looks from what I can tell, now fitted.

    A clearer pic attached, the filter section is at the front of the engine, front wheel end. The rest of the casing the picture is looking towards the back.

    I just cant see how it springs at all though, its very tight fitting!

    Also, my torque wrench is 60Nm+ so I have firmly tightened, but in no way over tightening. The thread was extremely tight against the old filter it took a real weight of pressure to loosen out.

    Finally, the drain plug - no drain plug crusher ring on these, just tightened +1/8 - 1/4 tight from it locking. That sufficient?

    Thanks again for the responses, really appreciated.
     
  18. Thanks. Yeah the diagram doesn't look right to the actual fitting. But now confident it's fitted right.
     
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