I'm looking to change the oil in the 1098 shortly, it's the first time I have done it on the Duke, but have always changed it myself on all other bikes and cars. Is there anything I should be aware of in advance, for instance I read somewhere that there is a panel on the sump with another type of filter within?? Does that also need changing too? And any recommendation of what make and type of oil? I don't know what is currently in there although I do know it has always been serviced by Moto Rapido.
Think Shell Advance is recommended so that's what is probably in there now. Quite a few on here including me splash out on Motul 300V, 10-40 weight The oil filter can be a pig to remove so most recommend going for the K&N replacement filter with the small nut on the bottom. The other filter is the gauze one underneath the plate right on the base near the oil filter, that you just wash clean and reinsert. I replaced these bolts with stainless and you'll need some form of instant gasket to seal the plate again, as there is usually nothing there to seal it despite what Ducati tell you. I just check it every other year, unless your tracking or whatever I reckon for normal road use every other year for a check is fine. I have never found anything there although if you like horror stories check Mary Hinge's thread Jesus... Gulp... 1098r Oil Change... | Ducati Forum John
Just done mine Shell Advance fully synthetic. Got my genuine filters from Moto Rapido through the post, they will also supply new sump nut washer and gasket for the plate that covers the gauze filter. The original bolts are made from cheese but they will come out with some patience you may end up tapping a torx bit in to the Allen hole as they will round out I managed to free them by tapping them around with a small chisel patience is the key. Have some stainless hex bolts and washers ready m6 x 20mm I use washers as it appears the problem arises from the flanged bolts welding themselves to the aluminium sump if you use washers they will not get stuck.
Thanks guys, I'll get busy ordering some bits etc... soon. I wonder if because Moto Rapido serviced it if they will have thought about the screws on the plate and upgraded to stainless or maybe added washers. Will have a check soon.
I did mine on the 1198, used the motul 300v 15-50 as it's what jhp ducati Coventry use, + 1 on the k&n oil filter makes life easier and once you've drained the oil just remove the gauze filter with a pair of long nose pliers check it, it should be clean (mine was) pop it back and seal the base plate with ducati three-bond can pick this up for £10. I paid £60 for 4ltrs and the oil filer money well spent and saved.
+1 for the Motul, especially if the bike ventures onto track. Change it every 6mths just for shits and giggles
Interesting that everybody except me here is running 15-50. When I looked at the manual it recommends 10-40 and I prefer to use an oil on the thinner side as if it does anything different it will provide marginally improved flow. Given that (as far as I know) the primary duty an oil carries out is heat transfer not lubrication then the higher flow would help. Of course I'm no expert and if all others are using that then maybe that's the way to go. Either way manual points out both weights are good from -5 to +40 C ambient so its all a bit academic. I ride nowhere near either of these extremes. John
Guys if I use the Three bond on the plate on the sump will that need to cure before I re-fill the oil? or is it good to go as soon as the sealant is on and the bolts done back up? Trying to find the best place to buy this sealant.
I ordered mine of the bay it came next day! Genuine Ducati Spare Parts Threebond Liquid Gasket, 50G, 748 916 996 749 1098 | eBay I think I left mine for 10min before I filled it up
What's this 3 bond sealant for, I was the first person to remove mine and it had a metal gasket their was no sealant on it. I purchased a new gasket from moto Rapido reassembled it and its marvellous.
I think I'm going to stick to what Ducati recommend as in 10w40. Trying to work out if semi or fully synthetic is needed and whether there is any negative to using the 300V Motul race oil, other than the additional cost. Looking at 4L LITRES MOTUL 300V 10W40 OIL AND K&N KN153 FILTER CHANGE DUCATI 1098 S 08 2008 | eBay Or would the this be better for medium to fast road use 4L LITRES LTRS MOTUL 7100 10W40 4T OIL+ AND HIFLO HF116 MOTORCYCLE FILTER CHANGE | eBay
Only thing is 5100 is a semi synth. I'd only use a full synth as the factory recommends Shell Advance 4 Full Synth. I therefore would not go below that rating, its probably conservative, but my attitude - oil is cheap compared with a strip so go for the best you can afford. John
Sorry John, maybe I updated the previous post after you read it to show the Motul 7100 instead of the 5100. According to the Motul site '7100' is fully synthetic oil 7100 4T 10W40 - Motul
Yeah I'd reckon the 7100 is fine save a bit on the 300V Nelly also recommends it and he knows a lot about these bikes John
I have no issue buying the 300V to be honest. I just don't want to put oil in the engine that is especially designed to be used for a race situation, which as a result may need to be changed more often than say the Motul 7100. I'm only using the bike on the road on the weekends, usually through the twisty in mid Wales. I touch upon high speed just a few times throughout a ride, but usually I'm sub 100mph. Does that sort of situation really justify me sticking in ESTER Core Motul 300V race oil? I'm wondering what with most enthusiasts wanting to treating their engine as best as is humanly possible, if using hi spec race oil is possibly over kill, due the the want of pampering their engine? Is it possible that in actually fact using race oil, might actually be detrimental to a road bike. ?? My head is hurting now!
Oh Gawd don't start an oil thread!!! You are probably correct that 300V is overkill. The 7100 will be more than good enough, so get it change your oil and ride. A lot of it is hype and pseudo science and the bikes would probably be quite happy on a lower quality. I reckon you have it pretty much spot on. Its just riders wanting to put in the best available. Never heard of any problems though because of running it and I'll continue to use it, I'm no tribologisit though. Whatever your happiest with go for it
Hi we used to be motul agents and the motul 300v 15w50 wether it be for car or bike is a 100% ester fully synthetic unlike other oils as low as 15%ester is fully synthetic it will not break down as the ester will withstand temps upto 140 so will give you full protection especially for the loading on a modern sports engine even if you only open it up now and again peace of mind is worth it. 300v car oil was red and kept the imprezza engine together personally and if i had to stand by one of our engines motul 15w50 all the way could look at a group buy if enough interest. welcome to our discount
