Nearly finished fitting a PD oiler to my Strada... What a bloody job,, no room to mount the reservoir/pump inboard so have had to cable tie it to the frame ( looks ok) but really NOT what I'd have chosen. Next the feeder to the sprocket. That swingarm may well be a "work of art" but it's shite to try and fix anything to. Then routing the oil feed tube back,, bloody hell,, very little room between wheel and swing arm. Then to get it up into the body as such ,, had to route it alongside the silencer/cat.. hope it doesn't cook it. These bikes are hard to work on!! Also,, EVERY single bolt on my bike has red threadlock on it,, WTF?? I'm talking plastic trim parts/ body trims ,,,, EVERYTHING!!! Is this normal? What's wrong with blue?? Rant over
On my 1200, the cat melted the feed tube. I finally drilled the sprocket cover and fed it through there.
Have you considered fixing the oiler to the frame on the other side? That way you can feed the tube on to and around the inside of the swingarm following the brake pipe/abs sensor wire. I don't have any photos unfortunately but it is how I did it with my 1200 which ensured the tube never got close to the cat etc. 1260 might be different but worth a look? Edit: I found a few pics. Not great but explain the above a bit better. The arrows show how the tube was covered and where the feeder was positioned.
GofG, IMO, you've fixed it to the wrong side. If you had looked on the forum topics, you would have seen a better route & location to fit the system, again IMO! I posted up a series of photos of how/where I fitted my Scott-oiler X-System, which even though different to yours, would have given you improved options and less visibility as well as far less potential impact from heat damage via the exhaust. Your choice of course, but it might be worth having a look, as you might be able to utilise the swing arm underside fixing to attach to oil feed to the sprocket also, something I certainly didn't find too difficult from the 'thread-locker' perspective. If you can't find the post, give me a shout and I'll be happy to send the info over to you FYI.
Fired the bike up today,,, and as expected it melted the oil pipe ,( didn't go on fire though which I'm viewing as a positive). Many thanks for your pics, that's exactly what I'd figure out I'd have to do to stay well away from the exhaust system. Just waiting for a new feed tube to arrive and then I'll follow your lead. Many thanks for the help.
Oiling is not a substitute for cleaning. It's the gritty road grime that erodes the chain. Oiling in the absence of cleaning may help a bit to alleviate the friction but not much more. Your chain and sprockets will wear in the absence of cleaning. Oiling the chain without cleaning is akin to adding deodorant without taking a shower. But that's just my opinion FWIW. It's the cleaning that take precedence for longevity although one does not replace the other. Don't take my word for it, ask MCN Chief Road Tester, Michael Neeves. Neeves stated that he never lubes unless on a long road trip. That's because he cleans the chain after each ride day. (see around the 15:49 min mark) However, If cleaning following your ride day is too much for you and prefer spending that time watching Coronation Street re-runs, then I suggest that once per month you remove your chain and scrub it really good with a soft tooth brush to avoid scratching. Following that, and only when you're convinced it's clean, hang it up on a nail and gently coat each roller with a Q-tip soaked in refined whale oil. Your O-rings last longer this way. Then, 4 times a year, use the bench mounted buffer to polish each side plates before reoiling. You're bike will be the belle of the coffee shop.
You guys must be doing some mega miles, to warrant strapping that carbuncle to your bikes! I average around 8-10k a year on mine, and have never felt the need, my chain still looks like brand new.
I have more than 17,000kms on this chain and the tension is still within specs. I have yet to adjust the eccentric. Once you're done with cleaning, a very light coat of motor oil is sufficient to simply prevent corrosion and the rubber rings from drying-out. The real lubrication of a modern chain comes from the grease within.
I always love this forums reaction to anyone fitting a chain oiler! Guys we all know some of you do 100,000 miles per chain and simply wipe it down with a damp ferret after each ride… But some of us think they are a practical option so maybe just keep the thread to the options for fitting them for those that want to?
Exactly right, some folks off on tangents here. I got the help that I needed and thanks to the folks who supplied it. I really don't need all this other "my Ways better than yours" stuff. But sometimes that's just forums
Because unlike the BBC, CBC and CNN, we have the opportunity to view and opine here about both sides of the experience spectrum. My opinion is that the title of this thread is accurate. Once the dust is settled, a new reader will have enough information to separate the wheat from the chaff.
Hi @DarR i think you’ve made it pretty clear (on very many posts) that you think chain oilers are the work of the devil. You are of course totally entitled to your opinion but all I’m trying to gently point out is you don’t have to turn it into an argument every time? Guy was just asking for some practical advice, you can’t change his mind as he already bought one…
I value your contribution. My posts on the topic are not directed specifically at this or any other gentlemen who has already purchased this device. I'm presenting an alternative (backed by expert opinion, aka Mr. Neeves @MCN) for those contemplating purchasing such ( IMHO questionable) apparatus.
On my 1260 which I just fitted a PD Oiler mini to I ended up placing the reservoir up front with some sticky velcro. You can see the top just peaking out. You might get the full one up here strapped to the frame as there is quite a bit of room under the panel. To oil the chain I very tightly strapped it to the engine mount on the inside of the frame. So far this seems to be working Because it's a mini the pump is cable tied onto the cables that run behind the side panel under the tank. Then the controller is wired into the aux socket in the tail and sits just alongside the battery. Everything is routed down the left side when sitting on the bike and you should be able to feed the pipe behind the frame in your picture and down to the swingarm. I occassionally use some dabs of silicon sealant to hold the pipe in place as it's easily removable.
That's a pretty neat job. I got the pump mounted on the frame and it's virtually invisible. I also ran the wiring up a similar route to yours although I took the power for it from the back of the usb socket under the pillion and mounted the controller up there. It means I can adjust the flow without removing the main seat. Otherwise a very similar fitting. Thanks for your pics.