Just got my hyper 939SP back from annual service and yet again it's overfilled with oil so it completely fills the window when the bike is upright. It's not an issue for me draining some off but have noticed it's now impossible to find neutral unless the bike is hot and the clutch just feels 'wrong' wondered if this could be linked to the oil level?
Draw some out of the filler hole with a syringe and a tube. Better than dropping it out of the drain plug and then hoping it will reseal. Bet its not much - 50 ml or so. It won't be terminal. Worth checking the crankcase breather hasn't coughed a puddle into the airbox as well.
My bike bloke suggested cold it should be at around a third to a half on the eye glass when level. In the past when bikes have been over filled I've used one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-Man-M...067492?hash=item1a274649a4:g:Wf8AAOSwoydWjpzq
Whatever garage did that must be a bit crap. My recommendation is that you take it elsewhere next time...or do it yourself for a fraction of the cost.
I guess if it's a wet clutch the two could be related as the oil level would be higher relative to the clutch as well if it's higher in the window. If it's a dry clutch though, can't see how.
Seems to happen to me whenever a garage does my oil, I don't think they give it long enough to settle, time constraints I guess. One of the reasons I like to do my own oil changes. That and I see what comes out and I don't overtighten the filter. Last tme it happened to me I took out with rubber tubing and syringe.
How difficult is it to measure the right amount of oil out and just out that in?! I get it home-maintenance numoties like me can get it wrong, but c'mon, a dealer mechanic you are paying good money for?!
Most don't like them but ive got these on the hyper and my z1000. http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/oil-drain-valve/index.php means you never have to worry about resealing the sump bolt ever again...just put the bayonet on and drain what you need to....
Sounds like they fill the engine to the capacity specification rather than checking before adding the last litre. Top mechanic told me yesterday that you should turn the rear wheel slowly once the oil has drained as this will release sometimes as much as another litre from the oil galley dependent on the engine.
My 1199 was overfilled too when (if) the dealer serviced it when they sold it to me. Imo they shouldn't be getting basic stuff like that wrong.
My 1199 was overfilled too when (if) the dealer serviced it when they sold it to me. Imo they shouldn't be getting basic stuff like that wrong.
I have changed the oil on many Ducatis and find that they never take more than 3 litres to fill to the maximum line. The total capacity varies between models depending on whether they have an oil-cooler or not. My procedure has always been to fill to the top mark on the sight glass, run the engine for 30 sec or so, turn it off and let it sit for a couple of minutes then top up back to the top marker. Simply adding 3.5L of oil into a drained engine fill results in over-filling due the residual amount still left in the oil ways, oil pump, cooler (if fitted), etc., resulting in an overfilled engine.
I almost always have issues getting the Pani to the right oil level if I change the filter. As said above it seems to sit somewhere and doesn't come down until the bike has been taken out properly. Even running the engine after filling does not bring it down, it has to be taken out properly before it settles. From now on I'll be measuring the reduced amount as Derek mentions above.
I've no doubt they just filled a set amount of oil. The filler is too high and there is no room past the clutch to suck some out. I'm ok drawing some of. But my real reason for posting is if it will have a detrimental affect on the clutch.
