Hi folks well I've chucked on the new ohlins rear spring 80nm and the difference is spot on and I'm no longer getting an arse kicking over anything rougher than silk but the front is a feckin disaster !!!!! I have completely lost my confidence in the front end with absolutely zero feel and it feels completely unconnected and wants to wash alles über , it's also hard to turn in ...I want it to turn and it feels like its pushing back up???? Any ideas ???? To much this to much that etc I'm on 13 out , 6 lines showing, 1.5 out at the bottom .....FFS please help!!!!!! I'm beginning to despise the evil shit!!!!!!!!!!
Oh and before I get the .... Check your tyre pressure!!!! I have 34/36 as I've always ran .... Tyres are supermaxx 180's
I think by softening the rear, if that's what you've done, has the affect of also dropping the rear ride height. Certainly the other way round is true. So you may need to raise the rear a little to compensate.
Yeah I thought a little about that brad ..... But the ride height hasn't changed drastically just softer now but I'll wind it up a bit but why the reluctance to turn in so badly or am I just a caaaaahnt and need to get a grip ( front end grip)I'm not über quick but this is destroying any decent riding ability I did possess ???? I struggled to stay with emm today on her RS ???????
What bike? On my race monster, we firmed the rear by adding preload as the sag was too much. We didn't adjust the ride height at all. However I couldn't get it to turn and seemed harder to get my knee down, so we dropped The rear a few mm and bingo, turn easier, knee down and back in business. Until I high sided and nearly killed myself he following day of course lol
Won't the softer rear spring have altered your sag? Reset the sag on the rear (and check the front at the same time!). I would be tempted to add a few mm to the ride height to get more weight on the front wheel.
Anything that affects the 'angle' of the bike will affect the steering..... Dropping the nose / Raising the rear will make the steering quicker (to the point it will drop in too fast / too much) Dropping the rear / raising the nose will make the steering slower and it could be really hard to get it to turn in. By softening the rear spring, the rear end will obviously go down when the rider sits on it, more than it did, so effectively the front has been raised. Having got it softer on your ar*e, I think you should drop the nose (if you can).....Unfortunately piddling about with aftermarket shocks etc usually ends up causing problems, unless a specialist is involved...maybe Nog could advise. Knowledge learned years ago, but dramatically confirmed during ownership of a Kawasaki 1000 RX.....It handled like a blind pig from day one and messing about with shocks, springs and ride heights to cure it, only transformed it into the equivalent of a charging rhino on a couple of crates of Guinness....(I reckon).... I got rid of it fairly quick.................and bought a Harley (Tw*t) AL
Soften up the front, you're not getting enough weight transfer, and the lighter you are the more rebound you need. And get some proper tyres, man
You could try fitting a twin spar aluminium frame, that might help with front end feel :wink:. Being serious for a mo. I`m no ex spurt but I do agree with checking the static and race sag, can`t do any harm.
Failing that what about narrowing the angle of the V to smooth the power delivery, so it won't upset the balance of the bike as much.:biggrin: Being serious for a mo........oh bollocks I can't be! :wink: What about your suspension man again now you've changed the spring!
Still not said what bike....I'd always lift the Rea than drop the front as sometimes you can reduce ground clearance or put the front wheel too close to an oil cooler or rad
yeah sorry its an 848 i couldnt bring my self to say it ......lol its doing my head in .....i might as well be on a cg125
Ar right! So guess you don't have ride height adjuster, just the std non adjustable bar? The preload on front would be a good first and easy try! Dropping the forks is a nightmare of a job as access is very difficult to the clamps. Definitely stat with getting the sag right front and back, 2 man job but an easy one. Once it's then balanced, you can start changing other things like ride height If you read anything by Dan Kyle he advocates lifting the front and rear not dropping front and lifting rear, and certainly works for me as COG higher which makes bike turn hence go Up at back and not down at front wold be the way I'd go...but then I have an adjustable bar on mine
There's a 1098 ride height adjuster on fleebay now......but its in America, so you could get stung with import duty on top. The stock 1098 one is set for a 10mm lower ride height than the 848. I set mine to the same length as the stock 848 tie bar, when I fitted it and went up a wee bit from there, only a few mm. Be careful with the lengths of some of the third party adjusters tho, as some of them, for although adjustable are more for lowering and may be too short, even when extended to raise the height to where you require it.
An easy test would be to remove front Preload and try it out. Back when I was lighter in the 90s my then Superlight needed minimum front preload and reduced comp damping to get it to turn in , these days my current (different) superlight works better nearer the stock settings as I've got the wieght to make it work for a living.
ok update..............the new 80 spring is in and ive dropped the forks to the last ring to put some weight over the front (about 5mm) having done this it feels so much better!!!!! the rear is still spot on and the front is now doing what i want ie turning ....its a bit frisky and a bit vibey still but thats the norm .....setup time next but i think im just about there .........im still a bit nervy of her but i had a talk and told her the cover stays on if she misbehaves (the bike not emm)..............NOW ABOUT THIS FACKIN RAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
