Should you be sitting on the bike or off it? Does it matter? Suspension seems better after it does this if you have been sitting on it.
Not at all. I don’t have a 1260 but I didn’t think the Sachs Skyhook was sophisticated enough to “calibrate” the rear shock pre load. I believe the rider/rider+luggage/2 riders/2 riders+luggage settings are presets which you can change within the settings menu. Andy
I'm not sure it makes if much difference overall so long as you set it the same way each time. I've always done it with the rider wearing bike clothing but no helmet, just for convenience. I'm not sure the rear preloaded has enough adjustment for me as I may be overloading the standard spring. My 1200 enduro always feels boingy at standstill although it's fine on the move. Biggest difference I felt was getting the front preloaded set.
Yep, you change it through the pre-sets but this calibration routine seems to be a baseline load / limits type thing. It normally happens if you've had the battery disconnected and starts when you switch the ignition on. This is when you're unlikely to be on the bike. I've had it occasionally when the bike has turned over but hasn't fired up immediately, probably due to low battery charge, it then goes into this calibration when you're sitting on the bike. If it is a function / baseline calibration and set, then sitting on the bike while it does this if it is supposed to be carried out unloaded, its likely to affect what the active suspension reads as its baseline unloaded condition. Or maybe it's far more cleverer and above my paygrade Can't find a definate answer to what could make quite a difference to how the bike handles... Edited to add - visibly it seems to be only checking the rear shock which has no manual adjustment on the active set up. It cycles between minimum ride height and max then settles somewhere in between. The only manual pre-load adjustment you can change is on the right hand side (non active) front shock. The manual doesn't mention anything about this auto calibration routine annoying enough.
My understanding is that if you set the preload correctly with no rider and then cannot set it correctly with a rider on-board then you need a different spring. The bike must sag a little under its own weight otherwise its likely to top out..
My understanding of the pre-load calibration (i.e. after a battery swap / disconnect) is that it is an end to end movement of the suspension which then finishes at the settings shown in whatever mode you have set (which you can then change via the menu). I cant see that sitting on it would make a difference apart from giving the rear shock a harder time to move the spring, I have always done it when off the bike and the battery had been disconnected then reconnected.
It certainly could be just a simple stroke check to see if there is any issue with the hydraulics. Can sometimes sound quite 'strained' too.
