Right lads my new to me st4s has 47k on the clock, belts just done and serviced I intend keeping it for a while so what do I need to do in the way of preventative maintenance to her? Maybe wheel bearings? Change fork oil? Valve check? Re-ring? Nothing stands out as such regarding the running and riding apart from the snatchiness at low speed, it has a15/43 sprockets on already so it goes really well thru the gears!
A very good bike that's often overlooked....lucky for us Oil,valves and belts are the bread and butter things. Change the front 15 tooth sprocket to a 14 improves slow running around town(snatchy feel) Wheel bearings don't last on these, so get them checked. Fuel filter and check the tank interior, they rust easy if not looked after. The rectifier connection suffers from overheating and is usually modified sooner or later (easy job) Change the fuel relay its a twat and causes all sorts of unrelated headaches.(easy job) Brake caliper pistons need TLC and can stick. I clean them using diluted washing up liquid. Once its serviced raise the rear ride height(hopefully the rod hasn't seized) stiffen the front rebound slightly and enjoy ;-)
Raise the rear? How you do that then? I have a set of bearings here, the front feels a bit gritty so I will look at them, tank is mint inside must look for the filter....
+1 on raising the ride height! You do this by loosening the locknuts on the ride-height adjusting rod connecting the rear suspension linkage, next to the rear shock and screwing it in/out. Note that one of the locknuts has a left-hand thread, though I can't remember which one it was. With the bike on level ground and on it's centre-stand, adjust the rod until the rear wheel is approx 10-15mm off the ground. You will notice a vast improvement in the handling in terms of turn-in, trust me! When you service it, pull the cams (only takes about 20 mins) and carefully check the chroming on the rockers to see if any of it is flaking off. The chroming is known to be crap basically - there were 17 revisions since the inception of the 4v head and the 17th revision was no better than the 1st! Note, you won't be able to see the area affected if you don't and that could be costly if you ignore the check. If the rocker chrome goes, then your cams will quickly wear too! Some bikes are more affected than others for no real reason, but the problem is well documented on all the Desmo Quattros. Rich at Louigi Moto showed be a whole big cardboard box full of knackered followers he had under his bench! If you are unfortunate enough to ever suffer this problem, then don't waste your money on Ducati replacements, send them off to Dave Newman Cams and get them furbished for about half the price. They basically cut off the chromed 'ramp' and braze on a stellite replacement. This is much harder than the chrome but won't wear the cam face. Just a tip from experience - change them as a PAIR e.g. if one exhaust rocker is worn, refurbish BOTH or you may experience some slight vibration, as the profile of the Dave Newman pad is VERY slightly different. Not much, but enough that it appears to upset the fueling VERY slightly. Other than that, enjoy the bike The STs are very under-rated and I really regret having to sell mine
Fuel tank rusting, what looking after is possible? They either rust or they don't surely. I'd follow any recommendations that will help
As above - plus... Check the connections on the starter solenoid are clean and secure - they are behind the hole in the lower right-hand fairng panel and get a good coating of road muck. Also check the big multi-pin connector to the left of the steering head - if any moisture gets in there it can cause all sorts of weird things to happen when the pins corrode. And, as stated above, enjoy - they are a great bike, and massively under-rated...
Hi, Avoiding condensation helps store the bike if possible in a dry place and I keep the fuel tank full over winter. keep the filter clean (its in the tank) as this can cause all sorts of running issues. If it does start to rust all is not lost try the attached link. Electrolysis rust removal - motorbike fuel tank
Run the tank low ( down to about a quarter full ) then when you tilt it backwards and prop it up the level will below the hole that the filter / pump assembly fit into on the tank base. Top tip - use a new o-ring when you put the assembly back in - you really don't want it leaking...
One other electrical thing I forgot to mention earlier... If it occasionally stops - like it has been turned off - it's probably corroded contacts in the bottom of the ignition switch. You can take the switch to bits and clean them, if you are careful. This problem can be prevented by giving a little squirt of WD40 or 3 in 1 oil down the key slot every now and again...
For adjusting the ride height. The nut with a line scribed round it is the lefthand thread one. The end of the rod also has a line round the flats..
changed the fuel filter today, pita job...... and as for that bloody O-ring.....grrrrr however its transformed the bike its no longer a missile its a f.....g missile!!!!! took out about a litre of gunky horrible stuff out of the tank as well.
I had, an, ahem... incident about 47k miles that necessitated pulling the heads. Compression was good and the rings and bores were fine, so my Ducati mechanic said leave the rings and don't bother changing them. It's now heading for 55k and it's in fine fettle. Update: Wouldn't ya fucking know it: bloody starter solenoid is dead! Went to take the bike out yesterday and all I get is a clicking solenoid. Only replaced it within the last two years. Bloody Italians should not be allowed to practice electrics.
