For anyone interested, I am rebuilding a damaged multi. Was in a frontal crash, it’s a 2022 bike and done approx 3k miles. Before I started Were I am up to today, have a lot of plastic parts to purchase with the worst being the tank cover, the instruments and headlight. stripped all the damaged parts Also found the right front disk is bent and planning to get the bike on stands this weekend to check the front wheel (if anyone has a disk or set they are selling please let me know). I am baffled by one issue, there is no front brake, pump and it works, leave for 10 minutes and it’s gone again, needs another few pumps, any ideas thanks
It sure if they are the right size but I have a pair of discs from a 1260 Multistrada. If you want to check then send me a pm if they would work for you
could it be the bent right front disc pushing the piston right back and then it requires pumping out again?
Just these main parts left to order, but that’s going to have to wait until pay day If anyone has a screen they don’t use, please let me know, same for the mudguard if you have done an upgrade thanks
I think you might be on to something, I moved the bike to a straight part of the disc and the lever pull has been fine. As soon as I roll the bike it’s pushing the piston back and lever back to grip, needs multiple pumps to get feal. many thanks for the suggestion, I am going to lift he bike off it’s wheels this weekend to check the wheel is straight and will test the brakes with a block in between the pads
New discs fitted and so far the brake lever is working great, good spot on the leaver softness being the bent disc. anyone know what the silver colour is that’s used for the handle bars risers, have a few marks that only need a touch up, but can’t find out what colour the silver is, has a sparkle, hoping someone has the code or something close. thanks Chris
Update on the rebuild The front end is rebuilt, new plastics for the instrument panel, screen, air conveyor, horn, and also found damage to the wiring for the accelerometer. Had to replace the connector for the instrument panel. You can get these from RS components. I did find the wiring from a 2021 year bike is different to the 2022 and later bikes (different part code), but the dealer was unable to find a diagram for that year. All the colours match apart from the USB. Below are the pin outs if anyone ever needs them. I did connect a stripped USB cable and tested the continuity to confirm the +- and data wires matched the diagram. Its just the colours are wrong. As I had to replace the accelerometer (and it looks like the insurance assessor had removed parts) i found the cable wasn't routed well. I will take a look at the bikes in the dealers next time I am up collecting the body panels. I also dont have the routing right for the DSS suspension wire And I have two wires marked heated grips, that I need to route correctly. I am going with the sports colour scheme, and have them on back order. My instrument panel is smashed and only have the lights around the edge (TFT is gone), but I have an amber "generic error" light on. Hoping when I get the new clocks, I can find out what the error is for. Dealer has to code, and will get all errors cleared and see what comes back. Managed to track down the last owner and found out it was a low speed crash, he had hit the rear of another bike and front end caught the rear top box of another bike, with the disc getting stuck in the same bikes paddock stand pegs. The bike fell one way and with the trapped front end, it ripped it off. His handle bar mounted phone hit the TFT and caused all the clock damage. I can see why it was a Cat-N, but so much plastic damage was done. Both side panels, tank cover, headlight, instruments, and all the front end plastics. One Disc and the accelerometer. So much damage for a 10mph crash.
Finished the rebuild, really like the sport livery, used all new parts except for the headlight, managed to find a perfect used headlight. I was surprised the new instrument panel worked, bike stated, just needs to be coded to get the mileage from the black box. Have a MIL light on, and dealer will service and see what’s causing, they think it may be down to the battery being off the bike for a while, as it didn’t have the MIL light when I started, it had a general error light and traction control. Traction control was an unplugged sensor, so just one error to clear. Fitted evotech rad guards and crash bungs, just can’t wait to get out and ride it.
Well done. Interested to hear if you think, after the work and parts purchased, that you're significantly better off over buying a used bike? There's obviously the insurance record too but you have the provenance to show that it's been done right. If the MIL light is the battery you may find it goes away on its own. Had a flat battery on my 1260 and after 5 or so ignition cycles/starts it went out. I did ride each time, not sure if that makes a difference.
the overall cost of buying the bike and all parts (i sold some of the damaged parts) has come in at £12k, this is a 2022 bike with 3500 miles. Full service. A similar bike from a dealer is £18-20k, I have replaced every bolt or screw if it was rusty or showing signs of age, so the bike is in as new condition. For me this is a great saving. I have changed my policy to a multi-bike and as it was CAT-N, they have offered full coverage. They just advised to keep the invoices from the repair should I ever need to raise a claim for total loss.
Fitted evotech crash bungs, but wife had gotten me Ducati crash bars and sump guard for Christmas, so can’t wait to fit these. I have a new set of evotech if anyone is looking
Sounds like a good result. Especially if it's a keeper. Added to which you know your bike and how it's put together.
