I am in the process of upgrading the voltage regulator on my 2012 848 Evo to a MOSFET version. After removing my original voltage regulator I noticed that there is a 4 wire (2 positive, 2 negative) connector on the output side. According to the wiring diagram for my bike, both sets of wires goes to the battery. Why would Ducati do this instead of just using 2 wires? Is it so they could split the load and use smaller gauge wire and lower amp rated connector? Also, why wouldnt they use a weatherproof connector like the Aptiv Metri-Pack for such a critical connection? I see SuperSeal connectors used for other connections like the O2 sensor and rear brake 12V supply. I intend to use 30amp versions of the Aptiv Metri-Pack for the stator and battery connections.
Doesn't make sense to me! Interested to know what you find out. I could pontificate with theories - but as it is all just theory, it would be useless to you.
It's probably to do with Ducati using a standard Reg/Rec from a manufacturer that they then designed their loom around. If it needs two feeds for +ve and -ve then they'll split the feed and give it two. The Black looks a normal way to show a split feed on a wiring diagram to me, the relative lengths of the single and twin bits won't be to scale so it could split anywhere along its length. The Red does look a little odd but is the same thing really. Have you checked it's actually like that on the bike? I've spent enough time with Ducati looms to know they don't always match the released diagrams. Nasher.
As @Nasher says, probably to do with the regulator that they've used. It comes with a connector where there are 2 red and 2 black, probably to split the load as a single terminal for each wouldn't be up to it and as we know those connectors are usually the first issue with Ducati charging systems. The pins get oxidised which creates resistance that generates heat until eventually the connector housing melts and/or the pins and adjacent wires burn. Weatherproof connectors certainly make sense in this application. The wiring is just the way it's been represented on the diagram.
I would make an educated guess (I am in Electronics) that it boils down to cost. Reduced wires size and a cheaper connector save pennies. Automotive companies work on a penny saving on pounds and lower to make money. BTW I would always use a 40A rated "anything" to take 30A
it is a regulator+- /rectifier+- https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources-how-motorcycle-charging-system-works
If you check the full wiring diagram you'll see that the +ve output wires energise a variety of units around the bike, they are not just going to the battery. Wherever it connects to another line on the diagram that line is being energised. The r/r is putting out 30-40a you can't feed that direct to the battery as it will blow the battery, it's spread out around other circuits on the bike.
You don't need to see the whole wiring diagram, the regulator is in parallel with the battery. Whatever current comes out of the regulator also goes to the rest of the bike. In fact while the bike is running most of the alternator output will be supplying the various circuits - injection, lights, etc. However the regulator will not be outputting the whole 450W of the alternator. The unrequired surplus energy will be burnt off a heat. So the connectors will see a maximum of around 35A if the battery is flat and all the lights are on but most of the time the current will be much less than that.
Thanks everyone for the helpful replies. I got confused because on the roadstercycle.com website that supplies a lot of these MOSFET regulators, he says the following: But based on the posts in this thread it would seem that if I connected only 2 wires directly from the regulator to the battery the rest of my bike's systems would not be getting power. Correct? Now I remember why I studied mechanical engineering instead of electrical!
I did Mech Eng and we did AC Theory, mechatronics, electronics too. I guess you opted for management studies instead.
No that's not correct - unless you disconnected the loom wires from the battery. It is best to make the positive connection after the 30A fuse. In the event of the battery being connected the wrong way round the fuse will blow protecting the bike electrics and the regulator from damage. If the connection is direct to the battery and it ever gets connected the wrong way round there will be big sparks and the regulator will get blown instantly.
LOL! I vaguely remember taking a few courses and labs that had something to do with electricity but I think I blocked it from my memory! The funny thing is that I did end up getting my MBA so officially I am ex-engineer!
Right, I made a mistake in my first post. I am indeed using a 630 series 46amp, 3 way sealed connector from Aptiv for the stator leads. However, I am having a hard time finding a 4 way version for the regulator output. I found the 30amp version but as you said, I would greatly prefer the higher amperage version.
