Hi guys, I have just completed the Desmo service on my DVT. Bit faffy for the first time - reckon it'd be easier next time. Anyhoo - I went down the route of buying a shim kit and OBD scanner (OBDStar IScan). Well the service went okay and the bike runs like a swiss watch but I'm struggling with the desmo service reset. The machine does it - I checked and that's why I bought it - however I keep getting procedure failed. The oil service and annual service both reset no problem - correct dates and mileage etc. I have a strange feeling I am missing a step or tip - although I have followed the directions. I assume it's possible to reset the desmo service when it's not actually due (still has 15150Km left on counter - not sure about the date). Please if anyone has any tips or has had to work round this kind of issue - let me know. I have logged a ticket with OBDStar but still waiting to here back. Happy feedback on the service if anyone is interested - or at least highlights / lowlights / learnings. thanks in advance. Raymond.
Service indicator can only be reset AFTER the trigger. You’ll have to wait until the mileage clicks over. Andy
Ah, thanks Andy I maybe should have twigged - my oil service light was on so explains why that worked and the desmo didn’t. Thanks for the quick response. Raymond
Yep, Andy's correct. Had my desmo service done ahead of a tour last year by my local indi Ducati mechanic. Desmo service light came on in the Sth of France. Had to wait until I returned to reset it as didn't have space to carry the OBDStar.
Hi Raymond. I'd be interested to hear how the DESMO DVT service went and the low/highlights as I'm considering doing it myself with OBDStar to reset the service lamp after it illuminates. Thx. Rich.
Hey Rich, No problem - although the service was quite involved - there were no impossible bits so I am glad I did it. So mine's the 2015 DVT and there aren't a load od youtube videos - mind you I didn't search for 1260 which I suspect is similar. The tear down went as expected, body work all came off fine - I'm one of these careful guys so I always take care not to break any tags or lugs. Fuel pump pipe fitting is fiddly - I used 4 very small screwdriver blades - but still needs care. All the electrics on the Multi are great, durable/reliable connectors and the loom is well marked making re-connection a breeze. I always add a little electrolytic grease when re-assembling. Rocker covers are easily removed once the radiator is off. for the belt cover I read and saw loads talking about what needs removing to get the vertical middle section out (remove adjuster pulley and idler pulley etc) - in the end I left mine on in place and had no issues whatsoever - old belt came off okay and new one went on fine. I noted the DVT point about the drive pulley not lining up when the cams are aligned. I was really lucky and did a couple of turns and hey presto drive and cams all on the marks. I set up all that before I started the valves so I had nice clean clear marks and knew I was on Horiz TDC on compression. I used a TDC locking tool - which I would say is essential and I did buy a crank turning tool - not so essential. Lined up I measured the H gaps and found 1 loose opener and 2 loose closers. I also read loads about people changing the half rings as they do wear. Most people how did this said it saved actually having to change the shim. In my experience changing the half rings actually took away the gap. So what I did was measure the gap, worked out what I needed to change, ie thicker closer - put it all back together with new half rings and ended up with dragging cams when I re-assembled those. With no gap the lobe is rubbing all the time. Therefore back to scratch and this time hard to gauge how far to go with the shim change - ie on gap could actually mean it's less than zero gap. So measure and go round again - bit closer but gap still not right - do again. I used a plastic trim remover to lever the closer follower - worked fine but if I were doing it again, I'd either buy or make a pair of lever tools to make it a lot safer/easier. Also remember there are oil-ways in the head so remember to block these - you'll understand when you see the size of the half rings. Oh - back to the half rings - people also said keep them oriented the way they came out - and I agree, that'd be best for consistency of gap - but I used a magnet and found it impossible to identify the orientation they came out, far less get them back in the same way. The whole thing for me was quite repetitive and putting in new half rings definitely extended the process by double I'd say. Once all the clearances are in spec, it's easy to button back up - remember some sealant on the belt end on the cover (and cam journals). Just a little - I did find some sealant in my gauze filter when I cleaned it). Back to the belts. I removed the belts before i did the valves and I marked the old belts as well as the timing marks so I could transfer on to the new belts so I ended up with the right number of teeth between the pulleys etc. Like I said - I was very luck to have managed to line up all the timing marks including the drive pulley. The belts went back on a dawdle - no problems. I used an app on my iphone to set the tension. That was tricky and I didn't feel 100% confident - as I was getting odd readings - 67hz then 124hz then 68 then 70 - so wasn't sure what was right. I downloaded Specdroid on my tablet and tried that - it was a million times better, consistent, easy to use and has a freeze facility. Very happy with that find and got the belts pretty close to 90hz spot on. My one big faux pas was what I did next. So belts on, timed, clearances done - I decided to give it a few turns to check the belt tension, so gave it a few turns - kept going for a load of turns to try and line up the marks again. I hadn't put the cocker covers back on at this stage because i was watching everything. So as a result I spewed about 2 litres of oils over the heads, down the engine/exhaust and on the floor - grrr. What a mess. Lesson learned. Oh and never quite got the marks to line up again - I reckon it might be many many revolutions needed till it comes round again (reminded me of an old BSA A10 I rebuilt.). I used an EMS (MOTO-wheels) shim kit for the US - cost a fortune but was invaluable. I think I used a good bunch of shims, especially with the new half rings - but at the end of the day I only had to buy 3 to top up the kit (guess a whole bunch I used were recycled as went). HAppy to chat about any other aspect - shout away. regards Raymond.
Many thanks Raymond. I'm used to doing belts and valves with my 1098 plus the issues over half rings (do I, don't I change). I really get it. Plus blocking the oil ways ! With you on that, and the sealant. All as per LT Snyder. As long as you remember to take the plugs out of the oilways before buttoning the cam covers up ! I use the Gates Carbon Drive belt tuning iPhone App with good success. It was 110Hz on the 1098. Plus JPDiag had the Correollis section of the software, just as good IMO. Interesting to hear about the V cylinder belt cover. Quite a bit of manoeuvring by the sound of it if you try and remove it completely. I can recall the 1098 was a pain. I think there's a mod for the fuel connectors to change them to stainless so I'm going to investigate that. Maybe I dreamt it. Did you replace the black fuel connector O rings with the green viton ones? I was keen to hear how you locked the cams to ensure no issues with the DVT mechanism interfering with the belt positioning or tensioning. I've heard horror stories of people fecking the timing up. Presumably all was well after start up and no loss of performance? Good to know a sensible approach still works for the DESMO service. It ain't difficult but does need quite some brain power to do it consistently and to get the clearances right so that once wear does restart then the clearances don't tighten up or relax. Thanks for the right up and offer of a chat. I may well take you up. Ta. Rich.
