Done the quiet clutch mod on my Hypermotard this morning..... Firstly my noisy standard clutch for comparison.... Now to the mod.... Remove your clutch cover, remove clutch springs then remove the pressure plate (The actuator rod may pull off with the pressure plate, don't worry if it does, just slide it out nice and slowly to prevent tearing the o rings) Now remove the clutch plates with a magnet and stack them in the order of removal As you can see my basket has had a bit of a hammering so far (13,000 miles) My plates as removed, notice the 2 steel plates first on the left, these are the last plates that come out/first to go back in. The very first steel is the one we will swap for a friction plate First steel 1.52mm thick Friction plate thickness 2.86mm meaning my stack height will increase 1.34mm Now measure the whole stack thickness (As I failed to first time like a knob) Ducati recommend 38mm +/-2mm As you can see mine were at 40.72mm.....Too beaucoup ! So I removed a centre friction plate to run a steel on steel in the middle Hey presto 37.82mm Slide the clutch stack in the basket one by one Button everything back up in reverse order and start her up.... (Yes I left the cover off in case it went tits up and the plates needed to come out ) Clutch works fine and neutral is just as easy to select I did read that if using an oberon clutch slave the lever span sometimes needs adjusting to compensate, as with the bigger piston it moves the pressure plate less per lever pull compared to standard (because of the volume of fluid pushed trying to fill a bigger cavity unless you span the lever out for a bigger pull/more volume flow per pull......if you get what I mean :/)
good stuff mate seen it explained on here a few times but perhaps it was a lil over explained for my mind as i wasnt grasping it and I know how easy it is to swap out and work on these dry clutches. mind you I have a short attention span. but that has cleared it up nicely! will give it a go on one and see how i like it.
Cheers buddy... I found a few explanations online but no pics so thought I'd do some I was amazed how quiet it is after !
I some quite worn friction plates ( well 3 bikes worth as the are all due for replacing :Banghead they measure about 1.9 do you think or would you know if one of those would be suitable as the first one?
Yeah.... as far as I could figure out, if you look down when you pull the clutch and see the gap between the pressure plate and the first plate, fitting a thicker plate just decreases that gap a bit There may be more science to it than that but the nearer to the steel plate thickness you can get the less possible issues could come up.....
Good stuff, well worth doing,& should prolong plate tang & basket life, all that clsttering just wears parts out unnecessarily , try with just 4 springs, works fine for my. 1100, also helps me keep riding with a hand injury that with a heavey clutch would prevent.
How to has been edited.... I forgot to measure the clutch pack as a whole....As a prize cock would....and today I had the end steel slip off and cause one hell of a racket while I had the clutch in at the lights coming to work.... Removed a centre friction in my lunch break and all seems better....I also read that putting the concave steel as the outer plate makes the clutch more progressive and less like a switch.....We shall see on the way home from work... Clutch pulled in pre stack adjustment Clutch pulled after stack adjustment
did you insure ( re first pic) that the mark on the pressure plate was lined up with the mark on the pin in the basket? Maybe a silly question but it looks like the pressure plate ain't seated right...
Yes mate....Hole in the plate over the pin with the line in it I think it's just perspective/angle i took it at as I was leaning over the bike, phone in one hand
cool, only asking as 1,in the pic the plate appears a bit skewed and 2,I have miss read the mark on the plate ( and not being one to admit I may have cocked up) spent the next half hour wondering why it ain't seating right! Don't even know if ot could be ridden at all in my case but was just a thought.
Ha ha no worries mate..... I'm happy for someone to point out where I could have made it go pear shaped
Tried the concave plate on the outside last night..... And swapped back to a flat plate this morning Clutch was more progressive but unless lever fully in or out it made a noise akin to a dog howling like he just caught his balls jumping a fence.... If you eased it out with no revs it was nice and smooth but give it any revs it howled then bit sharp at the end anyway After swapping the plate back I noticed when I pushed the pressure plate in the clutch slave was trying to push it back out (obviously because of the smaller stack) Tried pushing the fluid back up to the reservoir a 'la brake calipers but it kept sucking it back down....so I bolted it up, cracked the slave bleed nipple and let the pressure release, I didn't want the slave and clutch springs playing a constant pushing competition.... Fingers crossed everything feels great so far
I've tried variations of stack and find the concave plates pointless whichever way they're oriented. I don't understand how a plate that doesn't make full (flat) contact with the friction plates helps in anyway and it must make slippage more likely? I just alternate plain & friction until I get between 37 - 38mm, I also don't bother with the 2 plains together at the start (unless it requires it to get the correct height) in fact by removing the double-up and replacing some 2mm plains with 1.5mm, I managed to get an extra friction plate in the 916.
i had non standard stack when i got the bike... lovely and quiet... but it didnt actually work as a clutch, grinding gears and kangaroo starts off the line. This got gradually worse as the miles increased. after 1000 miles I changed to boring ducati recommended stack... rattles like a ducati now... and works like a clutch!
The quiet clutch mod will have no effect whatsoever on the smoothness of the clutch or dragging unless you exceed the recommended upper limit for stack height. Much better to have low than high IME, so probably best to take at least one plain plate out.
