Hello, i have just done the quiet clutch mod, which is done by adding an old friction plate in BEFORE the 2 steel plates and then installing the rest like normal, i ran into a problem of... not enough space. so instead of having 2 steel plates after the old friction plate, i used one steel plate. so basically, i have one steel plate as spare... will that cause any problems? the bike seems to run fine so far.....
Nope no problem at all. Exactly the same when I did mine. The mod even took away a kinda grawching noise I had when pulling away quick. The clutch should still make a rattle but only when the leaver is ingaged and not when idling. This is by far the best mod I've done and it makes me wonder why this was never done from new when leaving the production line.
well, i do have a slight problem..... i went to try and ride it today, and the bike works fine on idle, then i went into 1st gear and it seemed fine, but then gradually the clutch just disengaged and then eventually the rear wheel spun and then the bike stalled.... is there a way to adjust that and still keep this mod?
fyi, the bike was trying to move, even though i had the clutch lever fully pulled in, anad eventually the rear wheel spun and it stalled.
FUCK, i just read somewhere the way the steel plates face makes a difference? and that some are 1.5mm and some 2mm? is this correct? because i havent put it back in the way i took it out....
I've tried the dished plates either and both ways, I now have no dished plates at all in my clutch and I can tell no noticeable difference whatsoever. Important thing is the overall pack thickness, too thick and it won't fully disengage, too thin and it'll slip. Can't help with the quiet clutch mod as I've never tried it and have no interest in doing so.
i think im having some minor terminology confusion here, so.. im guessing because ive done the mod, my plate thickness is too thick? thus the clutch wont fully disengage so the bike/clutch is dragging? i thought "slipping" was the same thing as clutch drag, or am i totally wrong? :\
i dont get what you mean? and Dukedesmo, you mentioned you dont use dished plates? you mean the steel plates? if so, is that even possible? all i want to know if the plates inside the clutch have an orientation... because im readin elsewhere that steel plates have markings on them? and that some are different thickness which should go in first etc etc...
yeah it is a standard clutch for the 749 so i think... i bought it second hand and ive never thought of it being a slipper, i thought they came as a non-slipper clutch, and i wouldnt think the previous owner upgraded the clutch... how can i tell the difference between a slipper and a standard?
Whenever I screw something up I put it back to how it was before I started fiddling, this might be your best option. Take all the "quiet" stuff away and get it working as before. Not 100% on 749 but is the pressure plate in correct? It should have a mark that needs lining up. For future reference, when I took mine appart I put all the plates on a broom handle in the order they came off so not to mix them up.
Oh, and forgive me if you know this, go easy tightening it all back up, especially if your angry/hurrying! A lot of those bolts only need a handful of NM, they are easy to break/strip. Been there, got the Tshirt. If you don't have a Haynes I expect somebody can tell you what they should be, on the 996 it was only about 6nm IIRC
ive managed to download a workshop manual, it says.... "Fit the clutch plates in the following order, Two driven plates 2 mm thick, a driving plate 3 mm thick, a convex plate 1.5 mm thick, set of six driving plates alternated with six driven plates. A driven plate should be the last of the clutch pack." i may have messed up the order.... ill need to check it all up again.
i have an aftermarket pressure plate, hope its got a mark on there.... also where is this notch? on the basket? ?
