Re Plate Or Stainless

Discussion in 'Detailing and cleaning' started by cookster, Jun 28, 2015.

  1. hi chaps does any one know how much it is to re zinc bolts and bike parts?? ive got quite a few crusty nuts and bolts on my 1198 which i want to clean up,really want to keep it standard if i can but if its mega money to re zinc everything il go stainless, also the rear axle and rear shock body are quite corroded too, can i get these re plated also? many thanks
     
  2. I'd go stainless. As I strip bits off my bike, I'll replace all standard nuts and bolts with stainless ones. TBH I can't really see the point of having the original bits re plated as in general they are shite quality anyway.
    I think if I wanted the rear shocker re anodising, I'd probably wait until it was due an over haul and sort it then, just for ease. Hope this helps.

    Ian
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  3. Agreed Stainless every time, I wish bike manufactures added an option extra to all bolts etc. be in SS
     
  4. Plus one for stainless.
    Plated will just corrode again.
     
  5. I do some of mine, but...
    Be careful swapping out bolts in high stress areas (engine mounts/shock mounts etc) to stainless. It's harder and therefore more brittle. The stresses involved could lead to catastrophic failure.

    Regards

    Bob
     
    • Agree Agree x 3
  6. I like stainless where possible but if you are going for a faithful restoration then it has to be plating everytime. The aftermarket zinc/nickel plating is virtually guaranteed to be an improvement on Ducati original plating.
     
  7. The commonly available Stainless bolts and nuts are much weaker than thenDucati OEM not harder, but softer.
    Consider titanium or just better plating on the bolt or perhaps replating depending on your budget.
    Don't forget to use the correct loktite and torques when refitting.
     
    #8 AirCon, Jun 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 28, 2015
  8. There is no point in generalising when it comes to properties of carbon steel versus stainless steel as in the right spec one can easily outperform the other in all requirements necessary and vice-versa certainly in the majority of tasks found on a motorbike. It seems to have become another Internet Forum/folklore pet habit of dismissing stainless steel as a worthy alternative when it comes to fasteners, caliper/disc mounts just to name a few.


    Article: Comparison of structural design in stainless steel and carbon steel
     
  9. ^ agreed. Stainless steel for non critical components is a good option. Using St/St in critical, high stressed areas is just asking for trouble.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  10. Stainless is softer?
    Certainly doesn't seem soft when you try to drill the stuff...
     
  11. OK dudes.
    Oh dear.....If you want to get techy.
    The stainless steel bolts available to 99% of the public in A2 or A4 are class 50 or at best 70.
    These ARE softer and weaker than the standard bolts, as you will find when you torque them up and the allen heads round off.
    You can buy the same strength stainless steel bolts, but they aren't the ones commonly available.

    There's nothing like just a little knowledge!
     
  12. I agree and you should try an angle grinder on Aluminium... Very grabby.
    316 is 'orrible stuff to CNC machine also.

    I suppose the point is make sure the grade of bolt you intend using exceeds the specification of the one it replaces. Most of us aren't capable of making that informed decision.
    Plating the originals is probably safest, unless clearly upping the specification.
     
  13. Stainless is fine for fairings and low torque applications.

    Gr 8.8, BZP for others from a fixings supplier.
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  14. I disagree it is important to generalise if you can get a small amount of digestible data across if it helps save someone from a catastrophical mechanical failure. By the time we discuss the correct grades ...oh I give up.

    I'd rather err towards Brunell than Colin Chapman
     
  15. if it helps i want to replate/change to stainless front caliper bolts, rear sprocket nuts both rear axle nuts, all the undertray bolts, also the actual axle and the rear shock.
     
  16. Personally I wouldn't use stainless on brakes, engine, frame or suspension parts. Only cosmetic small fixings for plastics.

    Stainless steel fixings are inferior in every respect, with the exception of corrosion. Replating, usually requires a minimum order £40 iirc, you can buy a shitload of small bolts and washers for £40.

    Over the years I have had a few parts electro-plated, kick start, brake, gear levers on green laners, but only when someone was having a load of other stuff done.
     
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  17. strongly disagree - in my opinion the result can be the exact opposite - a small amount of information that doesn't go into specific detail can be far more dangerous.

    more generalising and so I have to generally disagree.
     
  18. Where's Islamic state when you need them!;)
     
  19. Do you know of any advantages that a stainless steel fixing offers, other than corrosion resistance as I will be pleased to be advised if I have missed something.
     
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