Any sensible suggestions on upgrading the rear brake, such that you could lock it up at 50 if I so wished? Currently it would be hard to lock it up on a mixture of ice, Teflon diesel and rubber in the rain! May be better pads, new disk?
Dealer did it. Did brake upgrade and sports pad. Back brake is genuinely good. They had to be changed at 7500k service but for a sorted back brake I'm not bothered.
Just bled the front and rear brakes then the clutch. I can still pull the level to the bar, although I'm not your average build (16" forearms & 45Kg/cm grip). Back brake appears much better on a static test. Clutch seems improved.. Awaiting road test, but it looks rain and the pub is calling. I've a question, surely the ABS pipes could contain air? I can find nothing on-line or in the factory manual to explain how to bleed these? Any ideas or comments.
The ABS block is probably the highest point in the system and air could conceivably get trapped at the banjos. I never had any problem with it on my ST4s ABS but some folks in the States were getting improvements by bleeding the system at the banjos on the ABS unit.
The bulletin for the rear brake recommended using a syringe on the bleed nipple to draw the fluid through the system this supposedly got rid of the trapped air, this is supposed to be better than pumping it using the brake pedal.
So apart from softer pads, no sensible suggestions! Can anyone suggest a make/model or part number for softer pads? Can you buy replacement banjos with brake nipples built in? I thinking of mods for the ABS unit.
It's what you use to slow yourself and the bike down off road (mud), in ice, snow or under water (Sorry Fritz :tongue. Those using the front brake here can usually be found at ground level.
You could also try a wavy rear disk. I have one on order which should arrive next week. Its a Galfer, and costs £103. That along with the ferodo pads is probably about as good as it will get. I will also be blleding the brakes with Motul RBF600 fluid for good measure. You can't change the banjo on the end of the existing hose, but you could get a banjo bolt with bleed nipple. I'm not sure how much clearance there is up at the ABS pump though for this to fit without hitting the seat. You would need to check that yourself. Hope that helps.
After bleeding the system take the bike for a test ride (somewhere safe for low speed ride and brake tests!) and apply enough rear brake for the ABS to activate....repeat 3 or 4 times. Bleed the system again, if no air job done - if there's are again, repeat after bleeding again. Is there a new memo? Last I've seen was May 2011 and no mention of the syringe method........caliper should be unbolted and inverted so the bleed nipple is the highest point ;-) Memos and Multistrada 1200 MTS1200 Rear Brake System Bleeding ;-)
By using a syringe you are drawing the fluid thru the system this apparently has a better air removal effect than pushing using the brake lever. This info was from the bulletin that was issued in 2010 as part of the upgrade, if the later memo is more effective go for the later method but you could use both and improve your chances of getting all the air out.
Thanks....seen people recommend the syringe method just never heard of it being an official Ducati method ;-) Worth trying any and all techniques!
