1098 Rebuild After Previous Owner Had An Off

Hi guys,

Been lurking in the shadows for too long and decided to finally get this thread started. This build is pretty much a collaboration with my dad who is teaching me all their is to know.

Bike was bought August 2018 from MCE's ebay store/auction after a spur of the moment type idea. 1098s midnight black, 9200 miles, CAT N, purely cosmetic. Not the best pictures but my SLR pictures were too big to upload.

 

In answer to previous comments.

The damage to the bike appeared to only extend to the plastic panels and magnesium headlight bracket, other than this it was filthy so just needed a good clean. Not sure what happened to it but all panels except the right fairing and right belly panel needed replaced. Cosmetically, the parts only cost about £600 to get it back to stock but I've spent thousands on upgrades trying to shave a bit of weight, add a bit of power and give it better handling. Aiming for about 187kg wet. I put my full restoration of a 57 plate aprillia rs125 on hold for this which was just about ready to be reassembled.

I believe i got a bargain, bought it for £4750 and it cost £269 to get it transported from down south up to Glasgow. A standard 848 sold at the same time from MCE for £4200 with what appeared to be heavier damage and more miles. Was pleasantly surprised when it came with key, up to date service history and papers from previous ownership, however, did not include the elusive immobiliser code card. Bike came with DP clutch pressure plate and cover, evotech radiator and oil cooler guards, evotech tail tidy, termignoni half system and ECU, oberon clutch slave cylinder, oberon footrests.

The black has really grown on me but i plan on basing the bike on the R livery. Quite fancy the tricolore mid fairing decal with a little ducati performance logo at the bottom of it similar to a number board. Hard to explain so hopefully it comes to fruition and looks good.

I have bought a tone of parts as the bike is set up to be my "forever" bike. Im 26 and not long passed my test so wont get much more bike for the same price regarding the cost of the bike and insurance.

Parts I've bought to bring it back to scratch, all parts are new unless indicated used:
1 x 82929433A Headlight holder £160.56
1 x 91371191B Owners Manual £26.10
2 x 85250241A - clutch slave washers, £0.19 Each
1 x 18710021A - clutch slave bleeder screw £1.00
1 x 61240051A - clutch slave bleeder dust seal £10.54
1 x 779100821AB - clutch slave special screw £9.22
1 x 77110431A - Side stand screw £3.50
1 x 85610421A - mudguard washer (supplied as 10 pack), £1.10
1 x 43313391A - chain adjustment swingarm sticker (supplied as 2 pack) £5.30
2 x 78811001A - exhaust clamp gaskets, £6.96 each
96757907B - exhaust servo cap connector, £4.02
85250241A - 2 x washer 10x14x1, £0.19
69720223A - tool bag, £13.97
2 x athena exhaust gaskets £8.54
1 x 42540041B – mahle fuel filter £22.79
6 x exhaust nuts 74810241A - £0.30 each,
1 x radiator screw (77912021C) - £10.12
2 x Air duct seals (78810981A) - £1.75 each
1 x Sump oring (88640341A) - £2.84
16 x fairing washers (85041091A) - £0.24 each
1 x indicator bulb (39040211A) - £4.28
1 x Sump filter o-ring (88640331A) - £1.50
1 x 52320401A – LH mirror kit £100
1 x 52320391A - RH Mirror kit - £133
1 x 48321551AA – 1098 red seat £125
1 x seat cowl £60 Used
1 x front fairing £59. 50 Used
1 x LH fairing £46 Used
1 x 71314601A - right mirror extender - £19.60
1 x 71314611A - left mirror extender - £19.60
4 x 77150288B – mirror screw - £0.26 each
1 x 75010221A – ride height bottom screw £8.71
1 x 76410241A – exhaust bracket dampner £0.79
1 x 46012461A – undertray £102.84
1 x 86610771A – RH mirror gasket £2.45
1 x 86610763A – RH mirror pad £2.45
1 x 71510031A – shock cantilever bush £17.64
2 x 93040111A – shock cantilever oil seal £3.84 each
2 x 70140041A – shock cantilever needle bearing £9.07

Performance upgrades:
1 x 96199207B - 70mm Termignoni system £700 New
1 x 96518507B Race mapped ECU £235 Used
1 x sprint filter £83.90 New
1 x 4l motul 300v oil and k&n kn153 oil filter £54.99 New
1 x 96624207B – DP red h20 coolant system £171 New
1 x 96518907B – power shift reverse shifter £195 New
1 x 96765608B - DP double bubble screen £80 New
1 x 966294AAA – power shift quick shifter £367 Used
1 x 96983607B – carbon sprocket cover £45 Used
1 x 96851508B – DP clutch slave cylinder £68.45 Used
1 x motowheels corse rearsets £75 Used
1 x carbon undertray £125 Used
1 x 964575AAA - Corse flywheel £70 New
1 x ohlins TTX 36 shock - £370 Used
1 x Renthal rear sprocket £25 New
1 x renthal sprocket carrier - £114 New
1 x Renthal front sprocket - £15.00 New
1 x GB520ZXW premium RK chain - £89.13 New
1 x Aluminium subframe - £200 New
2 x CR10EIX NGK iridium spark plugs £14.95 New

Although I have the DP Aluminium coolant system I still bought the aluminium tubes as spare so i can make another system if i want
1 x 96450107B DP Aluminium coolant tube - £14.30 New
1 x 96450207B DP Aluminium coolant inlet tube - £14.30 New
1 x 96450307B DP Aluminium coolant outlet tube - £15.07 New
1 x 81411881A - DP aluminium coolant nipple hose - £8.58 New

Safe to say I've built up quite the relationship with my local ducati dealer who are really good guys. Go out of their way to get discounts and provide any info when asked. Also some parts appear cheap due to abnoxiously low ebay bids/offers and festive promotions lol.

 

Next order of business was to start stripping it back to give it a clean and see what i was dealing with. Mudguard was scuffed but came up well, still needs a wet sand and relacquer though. Got the rearsets and carbon belly pan at the same time as the bike arrived. Last photo is myself and Nacho Novo the ex Rangers player doing our Mod 1 test.

 

I used so much gunk on this bike i should've been sponsored by them lol middle and front of the bike gunked which made a huge difference, especially under the yoke. Steering stop also sprayed as paint had flaked from the boltes making contact i assume, steering stop needed slight alignment as appeared to be a bit offset. Handlbars, steering damper and master cylinders were all dismantled. DP clutch slave installed. Bought one of those ebay vaccum bleeders to do the brake and clutch fluid which was useless, only good thing was the use of the tubes and tub. Also a tip for the rear caliper when bleeding is to remove it and turn it upside down. I bled it multiple times still in situe and couldn't get pressure. Trapped air was relieved by turning the caliper upside down. Good old traditional method used with the tube submerged in fluid. Bit of dust in the speedo housing so took that apart and gave it a bit of a clean, there's a very thin foam strip round the edge for sealant. New headlight bracket installed so front pretty much done. Rearsets installed.

 

Cheeky offer sent to Ducati leeds ebay store for a "new old stock" seat. Starting to strip the rear of the bike, exhausts were boggin so gave them a quick gunk, autosol and T-cut which worked wonders. Was planning on getting the full 70mm system so didn't invest too much effort. Managed to blag an excellent condition white seat cover which i plan on paining but i actually quite like the contrast.

 

Time for the rear of the bike to come apart. Again the subframe was boggin. The lower rose joint for the ride height adjust looked in a bad way but was just surface rust. As expected, some paint flaking where the vertical cylinder meets the cases but not too bad. Coolant pipe looks quite scabby so started to look into getting the DP aluminium system. Couldn't get the rear wheel off for the life of me but luckily someone i work with has a torque wrench for HGVs which goes up to 500lbs. This done the job in 2 seconds. Torque for the rear wheel is 230nm iirc. Engage first gear and have the bike up against a wall or similar and you won't need to worry about the bike moving or turning over. Remember and cover the wheel nut with tape or similar to prevent marking. Gunked the swingarm and gave it a good clean. Carbon sprocket cover installed too. Couple of minor surface scratches on the swingarm which i intend on rubbing down and polishing between the welds. Have a polished swingarm on the RS125 which looks class. Alternator cover has some minor scoring but fancy painting that black to give a bit of contrast.





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Ha ha its probably going to be just over 10k to be honest by the time I'm finished but i dont think i would be able to get anything close to an all round package or something as good value as this for the money.

Next job was tidying up thd battery tray area which was in a lot worse condition than the photos picked up. Not a big job but first you remove the battery, always with negative terminal first. Next up the ECU. Undo the 2 main connectors. Lastly the 2 retaining screws, the right one also has a sneaky ground which tends to hide behine the loom so dont forget about that. Undo all the lower connectors from there retaining clips if they're still in place. Slide the starter solenoid in its rubber housing off the battery tray, there is a power lead that runs to the starter which is retained at the back of the battery tray. Now to remove the battery tray which is held by 3 bolts.

There was dirt, grime and even yellow liquid which i think was coolant in a lot of the connections. All the tape was freying badly too. I took all the tape off up right up to almost the tank. Cleaned all the wires and connections to within an inch of their life. Holts electrical contact cleaner worked wonders. I sprayed that generously and used a paint brush to do the cleaning. I found most connectors to be absolutely caked in dielectric grease. From what I've read up on, contrary to popular belief dielectric grease isn't an immense conductor. If too much is applied then it can "aqualock" the pins and prevent efficient conductivity. I would advise on applying the dielectric grease to the mating surfaces of the connectors which provides sealant and does not affect the pins. Once cleaned, i used tesa 51608 19mm adhesive loom tape which was very good. Wrapped everything tight and taped some of the ends of the connectors with diall electrical tape. Remember to overlap the tape on to the ECU connectors for a bit of added protection. On re-assembly prior to connecting any electrical leads, install the ECU with the ground to prevent you from frying it. I've seen so many threads with this happen. I installed the new ECU at this point.

I bought small cable ties from B&Q which were very handy with cable routing. Now i can clearly see what cable goes where. Satisfying job when finished but a false neutral made me shit my pants when it wouldn't start after reassembly lol.

 

Indeed, i got the 200 piece halfords set during the half price promotion specifically for my builds and i have never been left wanting. Everything I've needed has pretty much been there and with a lifetime guarantee i thoroughly recommend.

Finally managed to source the 70mm system. Not got any experience with termignoni but i was a bit disappointed with the quality of the pipes considering they were new. Didn't mind the discolouration from the welding but some of the pipes were 50p'd at the ends and there is some welding spatter on the inside. Pipes themselves were pretty dirty too so had to be cleaned as although unlikely, i didn't like the possibility of crap going back into the engine. Plastic mallet managed to get the ends of thd pipes better but when assembled, it is by far a perfect fit. Bottom pipe requires a fair amount of persuasion.

For those that dont know, I'll detail the polishing process. I initially used autosol to clean them up and get rid of the discolouration. I used a chuckless corded ryobi drill £45 from B&Q, cheap but good quality and fast enough for this. Metal polishing supplies on ebay and their own website do some very decent products. I used a pro max kit and everything pictured is about £25. You need 3 polishing compounds. Black, green and white. Black is a cut which smooths the metal out eradicating the machined finish depending on how long you spend. Green is a general polish which brings it up a lot. White is a high finish which really enhances the polish. For the initial cut using the black compound you need a sisal buffing wheel which is quite rugged. The general polish using the green compound you need a black colour stitch buffing wheel which is still pretty solid but a lot more sympathetic than the sisal. For the high finish using the white compound you need a fluffy type buffing wheel. A thread adapter is required for the wheels. Once the polish is complete you use a white powder called lime powder which removes the remaining bits of wax without leaving stains or tarnish. The third picture is after the green compound general polish and the last 2 are after the high finish white compound. All in all i spent about 35-40 hours over the course of a week. Hands were wrecked. The camera can't quite pick it up in the last 2 pictures but the pipes are pretty much a mirror finish similar to chrome.

 

I was pretty shocked at how heavy the stock subframe was, it has a fair weight to it which i think is a bit overkill so in my quest to save weight i managed to source a new aluminium subframe. I'm not sure who the manufacturer is. I measured the dimensions of all aspects and they are exactly the same as the stock one. The appearance looks exactly the same as the stock/R subframe minus the extra support bar. The only thing that makes me think it's not an R subframe is because the seat brackets welded to the rear of the frame are still present while on the R frame they are deleted because there is no storage/need for them. Anyway, the aluminium frame cut the weight by half. Its pretty impressive to feel the difference of weight in person.