I'm attempting to fit the new lighter Forged Marchesini's I bought off @900theginge recently. (By lighter, the front is 7.6kg versus 8.6Kg, and the rear is 10kg versus 12kg for the Brembo 3 spokes. I'm quite surprised how light the Brembo's actually, are really - 3kg doesn't seem a lot, but I'm expecting on the track it's gonna be obvious). The front went straight on, but I do have a minor doubt about the speedo drive, it doesn't seem to orient the way shown in the Haynes manual, but it does seem to be 'in the tab' so to speak. And I took the bike out for a test with the new front wheel on, and the speedo works, so.... The rear wheel... when I took the circlip off the castle nut, I was shocked to be able to undo the nut virtually by hand, without even resorting to a breaker bar, never mind using the expensive rattle gun I just bought for that purpose. I'm a bit disappointed - so I'm gonna have to start undoing all kinds of rust shit on my 50yr old VW now, just to get the use out of it. I went to fit the new rear, and the odd thing is that the conical spacer - doesn't seem to sit right in the wheel. Now maybe its the fact that the wheel has powder coating on the seating face (which @900theginge said I should probably remove). A) Is it OK to use this spacer or do I need a different one? it wont go flush into the wheel like it does on the Brembo wheel. B) If I need to remove the powder coating, what's the best way to do it and avoid marking or chipping the rest? Thanks.
Measure the depth of the wheel and spacer from the mating surface with the wheel hub to the face of the conical spacer on each wheel - bearing in mind the different shapes of the hub as you look at them they may well have similar dimensions when the spacer is in place if that makes sense? It does to me but I've had a beer or threee..........
I had 5 spoke magnesium Marchesinis on my 748 and 916. The rear wheel conical spacer was exactly as you have in your picture i.e. it did not sit flush in the wheel. I ran these bikes for approx 15 years in total with the spacer as shown. Not a problem.
The powder coating must be removed regardless. If not it will crack and eventually the wheel nut will become loose.
agreed, however…. Thats a mag wheel so are there issues with running a steel nut against the magnesium? I have no idea, apart from the fact my r1 had mag cast wheels and the factory fit a washer between it and the steel disc centres
The conical spacer is aluminium alloy. Should not therefore be a big issue as magnesium and aluminium are both at the same end of the galvanic series (albeit magnesium more prone to corrosion than aluminium). As said, I ran this set up for many years with no significant corrosion to the wheel face.
So what's the opinion on the best way to get rid of the powder coating on the spacer seating face? I'm thinking dremel with a sanding wheel? Run a knife/masking tape around the outside first, so any chips won't spread? I have no experience dealing with powder coat.
Warm the powder coating locally with a hair dryer (not a DIY hot air gun, too hot) and score a line with a craft knife around where you want to remove the coating up to. Whilst still warm, use a craft knife, flat blade, chisel whatever you have to hand, to remove the coating. Andy
I would steer clear of sharp knives as these could result in “scribe lines” in the surface. From my experience in the aerospace industry, these can cause fatigue cracks in highly stressed alloy structures.
I had to get the powder coating off my Marchesini Mags in the exact same spot not long ago. I did it because as Ricky mentioned, I didn’t want the coat to crack when torquing things up (190 n.m). I used a wire brush (plastic wires, not metal) on a driller, and worked slowly with extreme carefulness. Took me about 30 minutes and I got a perfect result. Before: After: As far as the conical washer/spacer position is concerned, just like you, it sits flush on the 3-spokes Brembos, and not so flush on the 5 spokes Mags, even with the coating removed from the contact area. Not a problem at all as it sits tight in the wheel well. With coating still on: With coating removed: OEM Brembos: Finally, and to make you feel completely at peace with this, here’s a picture of my 998 OEM 5-spokes forged Marchesini. It does not sit flush.
If it's magnesium, the rear has 8 holes for the 4 drive pegs i.e. 2 positions. The aluminium ones only have 4 holes, 1 position.
Magnesium Aluminium, I know this isn't the marchesini wheel but the centre hub looks the same on the Ali wheel.
Just a note here about good/bad powder coating. If you're wary about the coating cracking, it's not been done properly! The quick test we used to do on commercially powder-coated aluminium extrusion products was to scrape the coating with something like a 2p coin. If the coating partially peeled, leaving coating on the part intact we were happy, but if it chipped off it was a definite fail.
Not sure if that's a definite marker? I've got Marchesini 10 spoke forged ally wheels and they have 8 holes.
