Yes, I know, not very “technical” but beggars can’t be choosers etc. Monster 900sie resurrection is underway, poor old thing is in a bit of a state, started taking bits off to clean / lube etc. The rear shock being very poor but has proved most unwilling to be removed, specifically the lower 10mm mounting bolt passing through the alloy swingarm and the lock nut sits in a very handy saddle washer that prevents proper attention. Suspect galvanic corrosion maybe an issue so I had to go all out medieval with heat, cocktail of penetrating fluids, impact gun (240v 450nm) breaker bar with scaffold tube attachment and still no joy to be found. It’s the old issue of trying to decorate the hallway through the letterbox. Before I dive into yet another rabbit hole and attempt to remove swingarm (those exhaust studs don’t look healthy!) with shock still attached, just wondered if anyone here had suffered a similar fate and successfully resolved issue. Cheers. Edit: images added, bolt is 10mm socket head cap (allen)
Is the problem the bolt in the ali hole or the bolt to the nut? Can you get the nut and bolt to spin in the swingarm hole? If you chuck up a photo it might help a bit? PS: For exhaust studs you can replace with titanium ones from RSR moto...Stein Dinse doesn't sell the correct length.
nut is held firm by saddle washer, zero movement on both nut and bolt. Thanks for the exhaust stud advice, I'm kind of a one f**k up at a time type of bloke.
I had the same last week when i changed the rear shock on my 888. I took the exhaust off and then you can put rachet on it and that will work alot better. henk!!!
If you have time to spare.... patience. Fluid, tap, tap, tap.... 4 hrs fluid, tap, tap, tap... overnight, tap, tap, tap... 4 hrs fluid etc etc. I'd beware of using an impact driver on an Allen head lest you round the insides. Don't ask how I know.
Proper penetrating fluid really helps, not wd40, something like plusgas. Halfords used to do something called shock and unlock which freezes the bolt and cracks the corrosion. Not sure if they still do it but must be other makers doing similar.
I've used this to great effect... in fact in this past week it's released a footpeg pivot pin. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275167652706?_ul=GB
All the above are good. The ultimate is heat, get something close to cherry red and it always lets go! However, the location of the seized fittings may not enable this. A fine oxy cet torch may carefully get in there, but u may find heat sink into the other parts stops it getting hot enough? Take care.
Have you tried an induction heater? I quite fancy one but can’t justify spending the money. Cheap ones start at a couple of hundred, these get good reviews: https://www.toolstation.com/draper-...m_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed But don’t know anyone who has actually used one.
Could you get a Dremel in there to grind off part of the nut on two sides to split it? Drastic, I know....
Another interesting thought, but not sure you would get the coils into such a tight space. Slitting the nut with a dermal worth a go if access ok. Once you make one slit through the nut you can usually unwind them.
I think one of the advantages is supposed to be that you can bend electrodes to suit the application. Bloody expensive bits of kit though so only useful if you do a lot of stuff. I have seen some at £200 but that’s still not cheap.
hold the bolt and attempt to release the nut, this should minimise the deformation of the Allen head. all good points above, I would now obtain a new bolt /washers, and see if you can get a nut splitter on the nut. even one side of the nut split will enable you to attack it from one side with a chisel and open the nut. this should then reduce the stiction on on the bolt.. best of luck
Plusgas and time is your friend, also consider splitting the nut with a long skinny cold chisel, common practice in industries where you can't use power tools or a gas axe (if it's liquid it's not tight) sometimes the impacts can rattle things loose, I had a similar problem with the bottom shock bolt on my s4rt, the allen bolt (in a blind hole - thanks ducati) was loose fast - it was fully unscrewed but binding on the bottom shock bush and try as I might I could not remove it, a couple of times I had to walk away from it for fear of completely losing my sh*t, it really tested me and I questioned my sanity, so I feel your pain, I ended up welding an easy out (screw extractor) to a slide hammer and managed to remove it, quite brutal but got the job done, good luck.
If you’re taking the shock out, maybe take out the swingarm and bring the shock with it? It’ll be much easier to sort on a bench. It’s an easy one to remove. Be careful of putting too much heat in the area. Localised heat on the nut if possible will help, broader heat in a bigger area will damage the shockinternals and or the swingarm as it’s alloy.
