There are only 2 wires on the loom side of the connector - White and Black/Violet. You just need to bridge them.
I've only done it when the switch was faulty to keep the bike going but on many of the older bikes the engine will only run if the stand is up, even when it's in neutral. Not very handy if you are doing work on the bike or even if you are just warming it up. There is of course the safety aspect to consider.
Not sure why most seem to recommend removing the relay or removing the switch plug and sticking a wire loop in etc etc here, can anyone explain? On my last 748 I simply used a plastic "scotchlock" connector to bridge the 2 wires going to the stand switch (just above the multi-pug on left side above alternator cover) and it worked perfectly. All the switch on the stand does is connect these 2 wires when stand is up. Cost - about 20p Time - about 30 seconds Simple to remove if required, no cut wires just a tiny nick in each wire insulation caused by the scotchlock blade. Also, this way if the scotchlock fails, the system simply reverts back to as it was designed and just won't run with the stand down, rather than hoping your makeshift diy wire loop doesn't fail which I believe would shut the engine down completely whilst riding? I don't believe there is a large current running through the switch otherwise I wouldn't expect a relay in the system?, and also the size of the switch wires don't suggest this? If there is good reason not to do it this way can anyone advise, I'm sure there will be someone with expert knowledge who can clarify? Thanks