Guys, just wondered if anyone has re wired the side stand switch so that you can warm it up whilst not sat on the bike! Have people just by passed it altogether, if so how? Cheers
Not sure what you are getting at. The bike should run in neutral with the side stand down. The sidestand switch is to stop you engaging gear with the side stand down. People do bypass the sidestand switch with a simple wire bridge made from a spare wiring loom connector. Andy
I have the modification but I bought it as an aftermarket part from a now defunct US dealer. You can warm the bike up on the stand and it will cut out if you try and put the bike into gear with the stand down. It should be possible to easily make something up using genuine Ducati terminals. Mine plugs directly into the loom using such parts and it doesn't look too difficult. The 998 as stock cannot be started with the stand down and therefore you have to lift the stand and sit on the bike or start it using a paddock stand and put the stand in the up position.
It does not. Even in neutral once I move the stand out engine will cut off. (well at least mine does) 998s fe
Given what Red998 posted, I could well be wrong then. My 748R started with the side stand down (before I bypassed it) as did my 996. Perhaps it's later model specific. The modification is very simple and might just be a case of using a piece of wire to short the pins on the loom socket. Andy
The main point is that you should never warm the bike up on any stand. Manufacturers will tell you to warm it up by riding it, I believe that BMW even put that in the bike handbook. Suppose that it is your bike, and you can do whatever you want to it.
Later 996 models along with the 998 came with the sidestand cutout I mentioned above. Additionally the 998 also will not start if the starter is not engaged within something like 4 seconds of the ignition being switched on. This is unique to the 998 as it uses a different ECU than all the other 748-916-996 models. If you check the appropriate owners manual you will find this mentioned. Most of the wiring loom also is totally unique to this model apart from the clock and headlight wiring which is the same apart from early 748 etc. models which only had one sidelight in the headlamp.
My 748 MY 2002 which I bought new has the side stand switch fitted and will not start until the stand is up, even the fuel pump will not prime until the stand is up.
You used to be able to get a MY specific aftermarket loom insert which goes between the side stand switch and its loom connector to allow you to run the engine on the side stand in neutral, the engine will then cut out if the stand is down when it is put in gear. These were readily available on ebay and were 2 minute to install devices costing £15-20. In normal mode without the mod the side stand switch in the up position closes the safety relay which allows power to the RH handlebar switchgear, that circuit feeds the ecu, and fuel pump relay switching coil as well as the starter button. With the loom mod done the safety switch still works if the stand is down but the engine will run when it is in neutral, frankly a better set up which is why so many people bought the modified loom insert Bob T, the accepted lore throughout 748/9x6 owners going back to 94 is the engine must be given time at tick over for the oil to fully circulate into the rocker box and warm up before driving (90 seconds is the stated time) and that is essential to minimize the risk of premature rocker surface failure. Whether that is true or not is never going to be proven now and it may indeed be better to drive the bike gently to warm the oil to operating temperature before using it for normal or performance riding. What BMW recommend for their products is not really relevant and whilst it may be good practice for most petrol engines it certainly is not recommended practice on all of them.
Succinctly put and I agree, there are also quite simple reasons not associated with warm up as to why you may want to run an engine whilst the side stand is down, such as servicing or investigatiion of a problem or troubleshooting etc. Personally I was happy to fit the aftermarket modification at the time, and it has proved to be reliable and useful.
Whatever I'm doing I just run mine and always leave it on the paddock stand. I don't and have never trusted the lean angle of the side stand on these. It looks much better upright too and is easier to fanny about with!
One on ebay; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electraeo...585529?hash=item4b1c6f06f9:g:ffUAAOSwoydWs7da A bit expensive IMO for a plug and a few bits of wire, I'd be making my own but for anyone wanting an easy fix it's got to be worth it...
my 620 monster has the same bollocks... So I took the switchy thingy offa the stand and cable tied it to a brackety thingy. Job done.. I know... I'm an animal.....
No it doesn't, you have to fit a by-pass. There used to be loads of people selling them on ebay. The actual modification is easy, but making it look good and reliable needs the Lucas connectors.
I disagree.... I used to ride my to work in all weathers. You need that choke off before trying to negotiate London traffic and junctions. That first gear is way too tall for a controlled T-junction pull away, in the rain / snow / ice. Trying to get the right amount of bite on the clutch while at 2000-3000rpm.
if you need your choke on for more than 2-3 minutes there most be some issue with settings. You will obviously have to let the bike until warm enough to be able to push the choke back and throttle picks up nicely, but no more warming at idle after this point. Some of the riders tend to warm up even for 5-10 minutes, which is wrong. At idle we have lower oil pressure= increased engine wear + low fuel consumption= not enough heat generated. Whilst riding (at moderate revs) we have good oil pressure =less engine wear + more fuel used =much more heat generated.
