There is quite a lot of set up information on the sigma website. If it is something specific Sigma are very helpful if you contact them.
I've got a file somewhere that came off the disc when I had one in the 899. Drop me a dm with your email and I'll fire it across to you.
And as above, give them a bell if you have any issues. Spalders was really helpful when we were setting them up.
Cancel the DM, I've just found it and it's a one pager. I thought there was a full PDF of how to fit it but that must've been on the disc that came with the clutch. I gave that to the guy that bought my bike. Here's the text from the one pager for what it's worth; Adjusting your Sigma slipper clutch. We build slipper clutches that are easily adjustable.. The standard settings should work just fine with a standard engine and a normal rider. But if you want to play this is the way to do it… Clearance… As set out in the clutch fitting instructions the ‘Internal clearance’ is set at 1.0mm (1.5mm on big twins). This is the amount the ‘rising centre’ has to go up before it pokes off the pressure plate. A bigger clearance means more reverse torque is needed to activate the clutch, a smaller clearance means the pressure plate gets hit more easily and the clutch starts to slip more easily. Using different thickness steel plates (available from different suppliers or different bikes or models ) the ‘clearance’ can be increased (try not to exceed 1.3mm on 4 cylinder clutches, 1.7mm on big twins) or reduced (minimum 0.7mm on the 4’s and 1.0mm on the twins). Spring rate/ preload. Once the ‘rising centre’ has reached the underside of the pressure plate and started to lift it the effort that has to be expended to keep it there crates the feeling of engine braking that still gets through to the rear tyre. So, stiffer springs or more preload will hold the clutch together more (the clamping force) and those stiffer springs will mean that more engine braking gets through to the tyre. It also creates heat in the clutch pack and more wear on the plates. Conversely less spring or preload will reduce the clamping force and less engine braking will be felt. In several clutches we provide additional preload spacers that apply more preload. These can be used as a set (which makes a big increase in preload,) or if you want more sensitive adjustments you can use 2, 3, 4 or 5 amongst the standard preload spacers. If you do this try to ‘balance’ the preload by using the hi preload adjusters opposite each other.. Tuned engines If you have a tuned engine you may need stiffer springs, or more preload, to hold the clutch together under power. It is very important for the condition and longevity of the clutch that it is not allowed to slip under power. Race kit springs from the manufacturer can be used, but sometimes these apply too much force for the right slip. As an example many riders of Supersport tuned R6 Yamaha’s using our 37 degree clutch like 2 or 3 race kit springs spaced equally with road springs.
