1098 Snapped exhaust bolt help!

has it snapped off flush to the casting or is there a bit sticking out ??

Flush to the casting .....means it will need to be drilled out .....take it to some one with experience of removing broken studs.....I have had to rescue too many where people have tried and messed up with badly drilled holes and broken stud extractors.

If how ever there is some sticking out you may be able to get a pinching type stud extractor to move it .....if you are very lucky:Nailbiting: search "gripping stud extractor" on ebay
It is unlikely because of the location that the tapered type knock/wind in type extractor will work.

At least its the front cylinder.....easy to get to oh....and its a regular right hand thread

 

as Android says worst scenario is that it's snapped off flush with the cylinder head face. If it's the original stud they usually snap off leaving a short untapped part of the stud behind. You can, as said, try a stud extractor on this if you can get on it but it's still worth either running the engine until hot or carefully applying heat from a calor gas unit that comes with a nozzle. Failing this you get a nut to fit on the remaining stud until stud protrudes and then get someone to weld it onto the stud - also remove while still hot.

 

Its a shit feeling when that happens... Like snapping a tap when deep into the hole, like one of those 'Hamlet' moments.
I'd be resigned to carefully drilling it out. As mentioned you'll be very lucky to turn it out with 'pigs knobs' or whatever. Its probably siezed solid in the bore which is why it snapped in the first place. You need pretty decent bench skill levels to drill (free hand) out and tap. You'll need a comfy height to work at, ie hydraulic bike lift. Good luck and take your time.

 

torx bits make good stud extractors drill a hole hammer it in. heat it if possible.

 

Bolt is normall thread I think, not left handed ( no reasons to think why it would be LHT). If it's snapped flush of inside the casing then go for a proper left hand thread stud / bolt extractor kit. drill hole as dead centre as you can. and use as large a removal tool as you can as they can apply more torque and less prone to snap... Many on ethief and guides how to use on youtube... give it good soaking with WD40.. heat may help but should be ok without... good luck. I had a similar drama on gauze filter cover, but tool saved my ass...

 

Sorry to hear you have to go to those lengths. If a decent amount of the stud is protruding I would still persevere. Have in the past managed to loosen a stud by repeatedly running up engine and then soaking base of stud where it enters the head with WD or similar 'squirt'. If the remainder of the stud protruding is sturdy enough you can file a couple of flats on it to get a good purchase with a pair of soft jaw mole grips when it's good and hot.

 

Agree with Chris, removing the broken stud with an extractor is extremely difficult with the head in situ , it's going to be hard, if not impossible to drill a hole dead center and parallel, and if it's not parallel and dead center you risk damaging the head.

Patience is a virtue in this instance, I would persevere with gentle application of heat with a blowlamp and regular soaking with effective penetrating fluid.

The best penetrating fluid being a mixture of Acetone and transmission fluid.

If the stud extractor you bought is not effective, whilst you still have some stud sticking out, why not get a nut welded to the stump to enable effective purchase? Well worth the additional trouble!

 

If its siezed in there, which it sounds like it is, drilling out is the only option. How are your bench skills? If you feel ok with it, crack on. But if you aint a screwdriver guy take it to a workshop and let them sort it. I'm a time served fitter and I've lost count of the times I've snapped off a drill bit in the hole.... Doh.... No pressure