As you all know I'm going to Snetterton on Monday, Let's talk suspension, I'm going to use it in pillion mode so I can get it nice and stiff, I've set the single mode to near enough the same as with pillion and luggage, if anyone thinks this could go hideously wrong please let me know haha, I've took all default settings down and am quite prepared to try it all out as it's real easy to adjust on the ohlins, also I have monoblocs and will be turning the ABS which should be a treat also the compression and rebound have been set higher to cope with the braking, I'm open to suggestion and any help or knowledge is much appreciated!! Thank you in advance...... Brad
High preloan and adj compression startng from mid and going firmer each session would be my suggestion With ABS on 3 I was able to loft the rear under braking before ot kicks in, tbh I'd leave it on low just in case and because you really can anchor on without huge fear
On the 2010 model you get just abs on/off. On the twinspark models you get three levels of adjustment (3 plus off).
2013/2014 models get 3 levels of ABS (4 with off): Level 3 - Default in Sport: ABS to level two for a performance-oriented interaction with combined front/rear function slightly reduced and "lift-up" detection deactivated for those whose ‘comfort zone' is a little closer to the limit. Level 2 - Default in Touring & Urban Modes: Touring - ABS to a touring-oriented level three interaction for maximum confidence with "lift-up" detection active and combined braking optimised. Urban - ABS to a city-oriented level three interaction for maximum confidence with "lift-up" detection active and combined braking optimised. Level 1 - Default in Enduro Mode: ABS to an off-road-oriented level one interaction for a low-grip terrain appropriate setting with "lift-up" detection deactivated and rear wheel ABS partially interrupted for controlled rear end drifting Brad3AB - you could also play with the front fork preload if you get the time - manual on both Ohlins and Skyhook
Maybe your thinking of DTC (Ducati Traction Control) rather than ABS (see description of the Bosch 9ME ABS system as used on the 2013/2014 Multistrada)
All Mutley riders should set (adjust) the front preload; Unless you happen to be an 8 stone Italian. Surely on skyhook the computer will have to massively have to increase compare//damping to try and control dive? Maybe why so many riders complain that its harsh? When I was last at one of our ride outs at least four of the skyhook riders looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if they had set the correct front preload. Answers like "nah, mines automatic" and worse...you set it through the electronics...I never read the manual.
Preload for the front forks on the Skyhook bikes is adjusted manually. There is a 19mm nut on the top of the right fork. Clockwise is more preload and counterclockwise is less preload. About 9 & 1/2 turns fully out to fully in. Static sag should equal about 1/3 of the suspension travel. The 2013 has 170mm of suspension travel (both front and rear) so the total sag target is 56mm. Get an expert to set it for you (costs under £100, normally £60'ish)
Yeah I'm getting it set up Tuesday and having a new rear spring aswell multi's are way to soft standard, typical though booked mct and then the only track day I could get on was tomorrow haha so I'm getting it done the day after the track track day haha!! But atleast it will be done for my trip to north wales haha!! Do you know we're it is on the ohlins??
ACT, I think Brad3AB has a 2010-2012 Ohlins model, form the photos he's posted, rather than a 2013-2014 Skyhook model for which you posted the front fork pre-load adjustment. Brad3AB, it's always a good idea to add the model details of your bike to your signature. From AndyWs excellent Motorcycle Info Pages, from the 1200 Ohlins / DES suspension page: Fork preload is adjustable over a 15mm range by turning the blue hex nuts at the top of the forks. One turn equals 1mm of preload, and to adjust, first disconnect the adjuster servo wiring by pulling back the rubber cover over the electrical connector at the top of the fork and using a small screwdriver to depress the connector’s locking tab. It should be obvious upon inspection. The adjusters have no indicator lines as do some bikes; they remain flush with the fork caps and are internally threaded, mating up with externally-threaded "preload tubes" atop the springs. There's a stop at both minimum and maximum preload. DON’T force the adjusters (they should turn easily) as doing so can distort the preload tube, causing friction on the damping actuator rod that passes through the tube to the valves located deep within the fork tubes. The adjuster servos produce very little torque and can't overcome any such friction. Because the forks are relatively long travel (for an Ohlins road fork), Matt suggested that 55mm of loaded sag (about 1/3 of the 170mm total travel) is a good starting point for adjustment, vs. the more common Ohlins suggestion of about 30mm.
