Good grief. I hope you weren't barrelling along at a fair old clip when this occurred ... because that would be some major sphincter action, right there :Wideyed:
Glad you are OK Paul, but WTF set-up have you got in the way of a nut on the end of the axle? Summat doesn't look right there...............and I don't mean the bendy bolt....
It's one of the reasons why I don't use cotton reels for paddock stands and use one of the under the swingarm support type paddock stand.
Hmmm, I cant fathom out how the bobbin reel install has affected the axle Arquebus - Each to his own I suppose. So the axle has pulled forward against the alignment bolt and bent it. No great problem. Replace alignment bolt and torque up the axle to recommended level and your good to go again Lumbox.
IMO when supporting the weight of the bike, the bobbins put undue pressure against the aluminium adjuster blocks at both ends of the axle, which result in loosening the nuts.
Sorry to see this has happened, lucky chain (or you) didn't come off. rear axle not fully tightened is usual cause.
Don't be fooled by the photo. Chains a mess, swing arms a mess and the bobbins are there for paddock stand as I have problems with the under swing arm type stand hitting the exhaust cans. I also put the bobbins on as I hate the thought of the nuts on the axel not being castleated, but I do use thread lock when I put the nuts on. I was also a mess after I'd pushed the bike half mile home. Would there be any problem with me changing the bolts to stainless??
Had a couple of early versions with tweeny M6 version and both had problems - one with a partially stripped thread in swing arm (replaced bolt but only a half cure) and another with a bent screw also replaced. It's a compromised design and there is almost an argument for changing chain early or even looking at removing one link from standard if possible as when the M6 screws are fully extended they really are 'out on a limb'. As Steve has said the M8 later mod was a big improvement.
Oooh Nasty... Maybe get some wider blocks made up so that the adjuster bolt does not need to be out so far / so long when the wheel is set back so far. May even have room then for some threaded holes to mount paddock bobbins. (Use the standard one if you need the wheel further in...) Cheers, DD
My swingarm is supposed to be from an early 900SS (92 latest) and it has 8mm adjuster bolts.......I even have the original OEM ones out of it (the hex heads are smaller than the replacement stainless ones I fitted)...... But I think the ally blocks could be a problem as Steve says.........I wouldn't be surprised to see one crack when torqueing them up..... ....and I also reckon that their inner face shape where they fit into the swingarm is suspect; having rounded corners and gradually rounding over time as they are (over) tightened...... ....sticking a bobbin out on the end of the axle acts like a lever when applying the load of the bike on it and it may be enough to 'rock' the ally block so it isn't flat or square against the swingarm. Anyway.......how do you get the rear wheel out when the bike is on a paddock stand which uses bobbins on the axle or the adjusters?
Another option but for all that work would still limit the adjustment range available in the same way as removing a chain link but at least you would keep the wheelbase long.
