916 Spark Plug

I have a pair of NGK DCR9EIX (Iridium) on my 916 SP3. I couldn’t tell you the gap, quite frankly, but they have been on the bike straight out of the box for 2 years and the engine feels VERY healthy.

(FYI, OEM plugs are Champion A55V on this bike).

 

+1 on the iridiums, I've been using them for years, bike runs perfectly, starts first touch of the button and I can't remember when I last changed them. Gap is whatever they came out of the box with.

NGK in your bike, Champion in your lawnmower...

 

Never used a torque setting for plugs, just nip 'em up enough so they don't come loose.

Tighten 'till the thread strips then go back a quarter turn.

 

I tighten them by hand, then add 1/4 turn to press the crush washer on the plug. With a smear of copper grease on the threads.

 

@RC1

As there is no suffixed number to DCR9EIX and looking at that NGK gap chart, I would say that your gap needs to be 0.7-0.8mm.
However, iridium electrodes being extremely fragile, I would be super careful when gapping them. I’d use the same spacer tools as for measuring the valve laps.

 

@RC1 Here’s a video I found interesting about gapping iridium plugs. I have never done it myself, as I never really felt the use to do it.

 

I use surface discharge Champion A55V in my 955cc Desmoquatro. I went over to them from NGK's to save me the problem of choosing plug gaps.
They worked a treat I've never had any failures with them and the bike makes good power.
They're no longer available but fortunately I've got a good stock of spares of them.

Steve R

 

10Nm
NGK state not to use degrees rotation when refitting used plugs. You have to use torque. With new plugs it’s your choice, degrees or Nm.

 

He said gap not what's the torque figure.

 

He actually asked both.

 

Interesting, thanks !
This must have to do with the crush washer that needs to be crushed only when new, I guess.

 

Correct.

 

Sorry chap I'd only read the quote that appeared on your post.

Steve R