So, in prepping my bike to get blasted and coated, I came across two problems with my rear end (oo er missus). 1) I'm buggered if I can get the dampers/rubbers out of the wheel hub. Any bright ideas (I'd like them to be re-usable as there is no sign of any real slack in them, surprisingly)? 2) perhaps more worrying, I noticed when I came to remove the circlip that sits atop the two bearings in the sprocket carrier that the "lip" under which it sits is basically missing. That is to say that a ring of the alloy has effectively sheered off completely - presumably by some gorilla removing the clip with a garden spade or something in the past.:Banghead: The rest of the surface is very scored too (perhaps a jumped chain maybe?). The clip was retained in the carrier, but only just. The bearings are now out, but they were mega-tight. Is this sort of damage to the carrier a common issue with SS carriers (or anything else that uses the same one)? And does it matter that much? Basically, should I be sourcing a new carrier or is it not really summat to worry about given the likelihood of those bearings working themselves loose? Cheers in advance Mick..
Don't recall having much problem removing the bearings in my Monster sprocket carrier (same as SS) but in removing them you'll likely damage them and for less than a fiver each it's false economy to try and re-use them IMO. Make an extractor to pull the cush drives out, saves knackering the wheel.
Sprocket carrier bearings need to be thumped out using the middle race, which in effect buggers the bearings....(Some people forget to remove the circlip, hence the missing bit of ally casting). When you have the new bearings, thump the middle race out of the old ones and use the outer races to push the new ones in using a vice.....don't let the first bearing go in too far before you introduce the second bearing otherwise you will be trying to remove a stuck old outer race again. Freeze the bearings overnight and warm the carrier up before you put them together. Cush rubbers can be a sod........Get a long-ish bolt say, M8 and use a series of washers, nuts and sockets to pull the rubbers out......Put the bolt in from behind the rubbers with a thick washer covering the metal centre of the rubber, then get a suitbale size socket large enough for the rubber to pull into on the other side of the wheel, washers and nut/s on the end and wind away (hold the head of the bolt to stop it turning -- extension bar or similar needed). If you get enough pressure on the rubbers they should start to move.......If not, leave it under pressure for an hour or so, and you will probably find it has shifted.
Thanks guys, but I don't have an issue with removing/replacing the bearings - the old ones are out and the new ones will go in the freezer etc. The point is the circlip doesn't really have anywhere secure to locate any more (probably for the reason AL suggests, who knows). Is that a problem, or would you reckon it'll be OK with the circlip only light;y held in place after the new bearings are driven in? AL - thanks for the tip re the rubbers - I'll give something like that a go if I can. A new set is dear, so keen to avoid damaging these ones if at all possible. Mick.
I changed the sprocket on my Monster yesterday so was inspecting/cleaning the carrier. As far as I can see the circlip isn't actually needed as there's a spacer/bush on the inside of the carrier that sits inside the bearings and onto the wheel bearing plus there's a conical spacer on the outside, both of which 'sandwich' the bearings so they're not going anywhere once it's all together.
Why pull the rubbers if you don't want to change them? Chances are pulling them will damage them to some degree, particularly if the bonded centre pulls out of the rubber itself.
I couldn't shift mine.....even with a lot of heat.....a previous owner appeared to have used Bearing Fit or something like Loctite 638 to insert them, so mine got thumped out.
The carrier in theory can't move inwards once fitted unless it slips on the bearings and all the cush drive bushes move further into the wheel.....which they shouldn't be able to either...... The carrier can't move outwards because the back of the carrier is partially closed and is thus held back by the bearings when on the axle.
We'll, you know when you wish you'd never started something....?! Consensus, including the powder coater, is that they won't survive the process. Worse, they might look like they have but actually be ready to fall to bits when put back in use. Who knows. Probably not a chance worth taking. Obviously, they're not budging with the home-made extractor approach... I have got one out by hacking basically, but I don't want to go through that again!! Think they'll be off down the shop to get whipped out. Arse. Mick..
I had this from my powdercoater too, had to basically destroy them to get them out. Drilled through rubber, took out middle and Dremeled the outer. One of the worst jobs on the Ss. Took ages
No powdercoater I used was Ppe engineering near Edinburgh. They said the same thing bushes would get destroyed in process so I just replaced them.
Oh, I don't doubt you for a second, Steve - and it may well be totally fine, but in the absence of a volume of advice to that effect, it's a chance I'm not personally willing to take. You pays your money, you takes your choice and all that. I just wish this choice didn't result in such a ball-ache of a job getting the old ones out!:Rage: Ho hum. Mick..
Tried really hard to pull these bushes out - heating the wheel and using a blind bearing puller. I eventually sent the wheel off for powder coat with them in, a i figured they would act as a good shield to make sure no paint ended up in the socket. I also thought they might be brittle after the oven and easier to remove. Well - I finally gave them a go today. Very difficult job. The heat of the powder coating process did not appear to change them much. In the end I used a jigsaw to cut through the whole bush from the inside to the outer. Then I could break the seal with a hammer and chisel. only when they had moved would the blind bearing puller work. Pain of a job and real risk of cutting into the wheel with the blade. I will definitely make a tool for next time! But they are finally out after 25 years! new set just purchased from the bay. not sure I need new pins - how would I know?
I used some threaded bar and a socket as a spacer a wound them out similar to the wooden jig. Without sounding overly smug they came out really easily on my m900
