Am I missing something from my rear axle components? Nut at each end and either side of the swingarm adjuster blocks.......... New adjuster bolts. Good bearings in wheel (creaking wheel removed). Adjust the chain nicely and equally......even measuring from the pivot spindle back to the axle to make sure the adjustment is equal. Adjuster blocks right up against the adjuster bolt heads..... Tighten axle evenly and tight...... Go for a short ride, and right side adjuster block has moved back a tiny amount (a few thou, say)......Its as though the nuts aren't grabbing the ally and then the chain pulls enough on the left side to move the axle on the right and skewing the wheel a tiny amount. Should there be washers under the axle nuts? The nuts have a nice thick flange on them, but I think they are stainless steel..... Maybe I should stick a bar on the socket handle and forget about a torque wrench......but they are only about 15lb torque I think. AL
No washers just the washer faced nuts. 15lb Torque, I don't think so. 16mm axle, nuts are 70 to 75 Nm. 25mm axle the nuts are torqued to 83Nm In old money thats 55 ft/lb & 62 ft/lb.
Yep.....hit the wrong convert button..............but anyway they are easily that tight..............I'll give them a bit more. Thanks Phil.................and Viv...I wear them anyway! AL
Also, when you've torqued the axle, give the adjusters a tweak so they are hard up against the blocks and lock them off. Even with the axle tight, you can get some pull on the LHS. Butting the adjuster bolts up tight prevents it.
It only works on the left side though.....my right side block has skewed back and the adjuster block on the left was/is definitely hard up against the adjuster bolt.... The movement is only say, 10 thou max.........but it's bl**dy annoying.........and the bl**dy adjuster blocks turn a bit when tightening the nuts so they aren't flat onto the head of the adjuster bolts, plus the adjustment marks have moved..... I'm trying to locate something I can wedge in the axle slot so the adjuster blocks cannot possibly move while tightened. I thought the ally swingarm adjusters would be better than the steel swingarm ones, but I'm tempted to switch back to the steel swingarm (after getting it powder coated......boy, was it rough and rusty). AL
Am ex-GP mechanic friend of mine gave me this top tip. Put a rag in the lower chain run and rotate the wheel until it binds into the sprocket before tightening the axle. It pulls everything up nice and tight and I always do this.
That's how I have always done rear axles on chain driven wheels.......I normally use a leather gardening glove. AL
Al, here's a picture of mine I've just taken. I've got the ally swingarm and yes there's a washer to take up the play. When tightened the axle barely protrudes 1 1/2 to 2 threads past the axle nuts. There's a thick washer between the axle nut and blocks. The adjusters have no washer on them. The torque is 74nm (54 ft lbs I think)
That's interesting Sev..................because after having checked my parts manuals looking for a washer behind the nut and Phil confirming it is just the washer faced nut (or as I described it, a thick flanged nut) you come up with this fitting. Are your nuts ('scuse me for asking) flanged? And when you tighten the nuts, does the block turn slightly and make it look as though the adjustment marks are out of line? (one back, one forward) AL
Right, sorry for the delay, Here's some more pics. - Yes definitely flanged, but the flange is quite shallow. When tight it does seem a little skewed, but I don't know if this is more just shite finishing on the edges: Right hand side: I also measured the adjuster block to see what the tolerance was across the face, and it's not dramatic, but you can see that it's not very parallel Washer is 1.5mm thick washer Without washer: With washer: I don't know if the washer actually does more to true it as well since if there is a little play on yours it might explain why you get the skewing from the plate. It might be worth trying it with some wire as a washer just to test the theory and see if it makes any difference. I might have some 17mm washers at work, i'll have a look for you.
That's very interesting Gilps, next time I have my wheel out I must remember to measure the axle as now you've got me wondering why those washers are there on mine.
The washers make sense to me as otherwise maybe the steel nut would pick up on the alloy? Mine's got them as well ;-)
Well.......................Oooo-errr...........is all I can come up with. Perhaps I should try some washers, although I don't think they will prevent my axle from moving back a tiny bit on the right side......It's almost as though the axle is trying to self align at 90 degrees across the swingarm legs..... .....the swingarm is straight.......checked by Motoliner, Maidstone. AL.
Al this is my semi patented aligner that I made up, guarantees that your axle is parallel to your swing arm pin.
Very clever Phil.............better patent it!! I'm using something similar, only it has a steel rule instead of the angle....... Getting the adjustment correct isn't my problem though.......its stopping the bl**dy right side block from moving back and off the adjuster slightly. I don't want to overtighten the damn nuts in case I split the blocks. AL
It will never happen.........My stands are brilliant while Phil's tool is just average..........'kin old bit of metal and a couple of knitting needles......:wink:
Al, don't know if this will help. I also seem to remember that there is a tapered spacer inboard of the swinging arm that contrary to intuition seems to be fitted the wrong way round.
