999 Stalling - Fuel Or Timing Issues?

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by Fleaman, Mar 16, 2018.

  1. Hi Guys,

    Only did about 100 miles last year due to a problem with the bike... hoping someone has an idea or two.

    A local mechanic replaced the belts (and a few other minor jobs) this time last year. Ran faultlessly up until then. Upon riding away I immediately noticed that it would occasionally bog down when pulling away. Went back a couple of weeks later and the mech had a little fettle, test rode for half a mile and seemed fine. Rode away again and in a few miles the problem returned. Think my local guy's skill had run out...

    Tried another local garage. Replaced CPS; no change. Traced all wiring, everything seemed OK. Their skill also ran out.

    Booked into main dealer. On the way a clutch retaining bolt sheared so I was stranded - probably over compensating with riding the clutch to overcome potential stalling. Recovered to the dealer, new clutch later he said looks OK, test ride was good, could have been the clutch causing the bogging down. Rode away. Again, initially wonderful, grinning in crash helmet, good times. The running issues resurfaced after another few miles. Been in my garage since.

    My question is, could this be fuel pump relay or belts/timing related. Or even dreaded ECU?

    Thanks for reading (if you got this far)!

    Lee
     
  2. That the clutch got damaged is odd. Have you had a look at the clutch push-rod? If the clutch plate bearing dries out the rod is spun with the plate and will twist and stick. If this is the cause, a new bearing and a new push-rod is an easy & cheap fix. Hopefullly none of the oil seals have been damaged in the process.
     
  3. Is the bogging down, the motor dropping onto one cylinder ?
    If so, it could conceivably be the ecu but lots of checks to do first.
    A strong possibility is the front coil which is very vulnerable to road muck off the front wheel.
    Another possibility is that your plugs were replaced with NGK and the mechanic didn’t have a thin wall socket, so the plugs didn’t get tightened properly.
    A cam being one tooth off would affect it constantly, not bog down occasionally.
    A ‘clutch retaining bolt’ sheared, so you needed a new clutch?
    Sounds bizarre to me...
    Replace the relays anyway.
    They are cheap and it might do the trick...
    Good luck
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. The fact that you said it runs fine to start with then after a bit of a run starts to play up I would start by checking the coils as this is a common issue and dose give the symptoms described. I had a 999 and it would run for 150 miles fine then it would drop to one cylinder all the way home, leave it for 30 mins and it would start up ok for a while. I replaced the coil lead and it sorted it, but in 6000 miles I replaced the other one and the same one again, good luck hope you find the problem and enjoy a great bike
     
    • Useful Useful x 1
  5. Hope you get it resolved,

    I had a similar issue on my first 749, it would randomly drop power. Didn’t seem to be any real rhyme or reason for it. Changed the TPS and associated shims to no avail.

    After it cutting out for the n’th time and having to get the bike recovered, still couldn’t work out the issue until we had it on the dyno.

    It turned out to be a loose pin in the main harness that had worked it’s way out, just where it connects into the air box.

    Might be work a check before throwing $$$ at it.
     
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