I have had some problems starting my 999. Thought it was the battery but that is only 6 months old and holding good charge. The voltage reading on the LCD was going down to 11.9v very quickly. Then days later I noticed that the dip beam was coming on, on its own, at about half power with a buzzing sound coming from the bulb area. I took out the fuse for the lights and the bike now starts well and the LCD is showing a healthy 12.4v. What is likely to be causing the starting/light problem? I have an idea but I am a numpty when it comes to electrics
So many relays!?! Is this the right one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30120239...acement=582800&cto_pld=K82OXWLSAAAEnSvSvp6PnA
I would go with this one, no bits attached to body. Buy some spares as the same relay is used for the coil/injector/pump relay found in the battery box. These relays are prone to water ingress and verdigris. Failure of the coil/injector/pump relay can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14133799...gyq9EtCRF2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
as chris says, for a stress-free life it's worth buying 4 at that price, if the bike is a "keeper", as they can play up out of the blue but more often when the cold and damp weather arrives.
I noticed that last recommended is a 30 amp. Where as I was recommended a 20 amp at first. Does that matter? Just checking
A relay with a rating of 30A has the capacity to switch up to 30A, so it'll be ok (& will probably last a bit longer).
The new relay is fitted and no more light problem. The voltage reading on the LCD is still going down to 11.9v very quickly and the bike is still reluctant to start. If I take the lighting fuse out the LCD shows 12.4V and the bike starts well. I had the battery checked at Halfords and they did an earth check which showed 8.55 Ohms. They said it should normally be 0 to 1 ohm. So is there any where obvious to start looking? Any part on the bike that is renowned for causing this sort of problem? Any check that I can do presumably with a multimeter?
I had weird electrical issues with mine but a bit different, the dash would light up, the pump would prime sporadically and the headlight relay would be clicking away. I cleaned up the big cylindrical connector on the left hand side of the bike which cured half the issues and then found a couple of the wires going into the starter circuit relay chaffed. Cut those back, reconnected and re-taped and all was ok.
Check the earth strap going from the battery to the rear cyclinder as the main earth. I replaced mine with a new better ( thicker one). Mine also wasn't the best on the earth cable from the battery where the other earths crimp on to the main cable. Ended up cutting and replacing these as well. The battery box is a pig to work with.
Take the point on the other earths. Not sure what the main earth strap could have to do with it. I would suspect something within the lighting circuit alone. Am I wrong? Do you think I should put this query into the Technical Help section to get more clarity?
It's worth checking all the starter and earth leads (as said) to begin with, If you get that much of a drop without any lights on then it sounds like either a partial short or a relay/solenoid/switch drawing current because it hasn't shut off properly. The buzzing you spoke of, is a massive clue - can you track the noise right down to the source? obviously don't leave it in that position for more than a few seconds at a time.
The buzzing and the light coming on stopped as soon as I changed the light relay. Sounded like it was coming from the bulb area which is also where that relay sits.
