Had my bike just ONE day and i've manage to strip an allen bolt trying to get the trim around the radiator off Really f'd off What's the safest way to get it out? I don't want to damage the plastic around the bolt.
You say you stripped it, Take it you mean the allen key is turning in screw head? If so use an easy out
If you have some torx bits find one that needs tapping with a hammer nice and solid as they are slightly tapered, should do the trick.
if its an allen head use something like this, wont need drilling, Halfords etc have them, For some reason the forum isn't letting me add link, Just put draper easy out into ebay
Thanks guys - does anyone have a list of Allen bolt sizes for the monster 1200 r? I’ll need to buy a replacement before I try and use something like this on it.
Were you using the round 'ball' type allen end? Never use those to start, use proper end first, then ball end. Buy a good set of long allen tools. The cheaper sets aren't as such a good fit i find. Saying that, I have a short set, a medium set and a longer set. Rhubarbs suggestion is what I try, plus tapping it whilst applying some twist. T Handle ones are good, but buy good quality or buy twice.
Yep had this problem last week Allen bolt on my rear for the rear calliper. Tried everything, hammering a torx bit in, impact drive, drill and easy out (snapped the easy out in the bolt). In the end I got the dremel out and cut a slot in the head for a flat blade screwdriver and a spanner to turn it with.
I've had this happen to me 3 times now. (1098R fuel pump flange, Hyperstrada subframe bolts & 1098 fairing) The way I got 2 of these out was to Dremmel a slot in the head (as above) and use a screwdriver to remove. In 2 of the cases, where the bolt isn't seen, I replaced them with hex headed stainless bolts. I have decent allen head tools too, it just seems to be a Ducati thing. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/1098r-alloy-fuel-tank.55522/
If you check what size the shoulder of the set screw is, you should be able to drill just the head off. That’s useful provided there is enough protruding from the body after you’ve taken off the cover. A little attention with a file allows Mole grips or a spanner to turn the remnant out.
Once it is out, measure the thread diameter (4, 5 or 6mm probs) and length. Go to your local industrial estate and find the local fixing supplier. Buy bags of stainless Allen head bolts in various diameters and length for not a lot of money. I have done this many times and they usually ask “cash sale or account” to which I say “cash” and they invariably say something like, “call it a fiver/tenner?” for the bolts and nuts. Bargain.
Some good ideas here. The bolt is sunk with plastic surrounding it Scared to use a dremel. It might be my only choice. I’ll gave another go with a torx and a hammer. Wish they didn’t use such small sizes. The problem occurred because it was smaller than my smallest proper Allan driver in my socket set and I stupidly resorted to using a cheap one.
If it's one of these button head types they are horrid and take a size down from a regular cap screw, I aways use something else to replace them, even if it's not as pretty I do what others have suggested, cut a slot in it and try to get a screwdriver to remove. If that doesn't work I batter the living shit out it on one side ten the other with a hammer and old screwdriver or perferably chisel if it's big enough Easy outs can get you into more trouble as they are hardened, if you break one in the screw you are in for a lotta fun (ask me how I know?)
Worst case, centre it, and then drill out with slightly smaller diameter drill, it then will come out easy enough, most of the time torx bit will do the trick but if it’s a real small size and very soft cheap bolt it might just mush up
I use a punch and hammer and drift them out enough to get a set of grips. No fear of slipping with the cutter
As above - use Torx first. Then by yourself a set of Facom T allen keys (good sharp hard edges) and a set of Wera L shaped Ball ended wrenches. The Wera Hex Plus style - that seems to round less as they are shaped differently ALWAYS use the square end first (not ball). But I normally for the Pan Head or Shoulder bolts that have 1 size smaller hex - use the T and knock it into the screw and tap it repeatedly to shock the bolt before undoing - supporting the back of the T to try and keep it square to the bolt as you apply the torque to undo the bolt on the long end of the T
