Morning chaps (and chappesses!), During my quest to revive a 600ss, I need to change a slider on my forks from a pitted one to something a little better, (I have a couple of spares). Trouble is, the only other ones I have are still attached to the bottom clamp, but are the wrong side. Has anyone have experience of how to separate the two parts, or were they made not to be dis-assembled? I have removed the socket headed screw in the centre and have tried to tap the clamp off the slider but nothing is moving, and with that I am not sure if that just allows the damper to be removed.. Any help would be appreciated.. BTW, they are the standard non-adjustables..
Please don't take this as gospel because I really don't know for sure, but I think its extremely unlikely they don't separate. Perhaps substituting 'tap' for 'beat like f#@k' will yeild results?
lol.. I didn't want to go too hard in case I done more damage, but the one I am trying to separate is shagged anyway. I have a couple of photos for those interested, (no laughing at the back)..
They do come apart because I have seen them apart (and you can buy new stanchions) but I can't recall how.............I thought they were threaded........... If you have removed the bolt from the bottom, I would be inclined to clamp the bottom section in wood, in a vice, warm up the alloy with a blowlamp, put two pairs of the old blue rubber gloves on (for grip) and try twisting the stanchion anti-clockwise........you will get more twist by gripping at the top end.... AL
if you are taking tha axle mount off the stanchion Al is correct they are threaded have you removed the grub screw from the side? regards Steve
The story so far. I stripped all of them today and with the two sets I have, one set is a 94' and the other set is a 96' for my 97' bike. The 94' set had no indication of having any grubscrews but the 96' set has threaded holes and these look like they would perhaps lock the head of the large socket headed screw holding the whole assembly together, but no grubscrews to be seen. I am going to have a go now with some heat and see how I get on. Ironically, after I had a good look at all of the sliders, I have only one good one, one not so good one and two rather worn ones. Al, did you think that you can still buy them new? If anyone would have a part number or even a decent s/h one, I would be interested in doing a deal.
Ducati 750 SS (Twin disc) 98 Fork Tube - Stanchion - Single Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer OK, so it's for a 750, but they should be the same.....I didn't check the 600 listing.......make sure it's for Marzocchi suspension, which is what yours are.... ..but you could also get them via MotoRapido, or at least you could a year ago. I would check again for the grub screw though because I have seen them in other SS Marzocchis. When I get a minute I will go and inspect my Marzocchis, because they aren't fitted to my bike, I changed them for Showas. AL
Sorted... All Clamps and Stanchions have now been separated.. It took a bit of heat and a bit of swearing, but we got there in the end. The ends of the stanchions aren't threaded as first thought but are plain, and seem to be fixed to the clamps by way of a retainer, like Loctite Bearing Fit or the likes.. It took the heat to release the bond and start things moving.. I would take a photo and post, but they are all still in the boot of my car, probably melting the carpet as I type... When I am assembling again, I will use some Bearing Fit... BTW, I had a look at Wemoto but they don't seem to stock any Stanchions for the 600.. I'll keep looking anyway. Thanks again for the help, I appreciate it.
I wonder how the front wheel stays one if it is just relying on Bearing Fit.......OK, the stuff goes off like concrete (one of them does) but hell....... The 750 stanchion should be the same as a 600 stanchion. But what is your issue......pitting of the chrome stanchion? You can eliminate a lot of small pits with fine wet & dry, wire wool and lots of polishing........my Marzocchis don't leak anymore.......and any potential of leaking past the remains of the pitting is covered by using slightly oversize seals...... OK, so they have been sitting on my shelf for the past year or so, but they did 1000+ miles after they were refurbed, before I fitted the Showas. AL
The M10 socket headed screw up the centre of the clamp holds everything in place and I think it would (or should) be fitted with threadlock to be sure. (There was evidence of threadlock on removal) The Stanchion seemed to be fitted with Retainer as it was a green compound on dis-assembly. I have used it before in engineering, and it is very good and takes a very powerful hold if surfaces are properly prepared. The only way to destroy the bond is through heat.. The Stanchion I have is pitted slightly.. The leg I took it out of had the seals destroyed presumably because of the pits, but I would tend to agree that some some spent fettling might allow it to be used again.. I heard once of someone cleaning out a pitted Stanchion and careful filling with Araldite and smoothing off.. I'll post a photo or two tomorrow of the bits in question..
A green Loctite is probably 638 or 648.........needs a lot of heat (more than Bearing Fit) to crack it....... Yep, I have known people to use something similsr to Araldite, but much harder and less prone to wear......and it was silver......but for the life of me I can't remember if I ever asked what it was. I'll see if I can locate the oversize seal dimensions......it's in my email files somewhere....... AL
Ahh, you are probably correct with the loctite.. As you know, there are lot and lots of grades, all for different purposes.. 648 i think from memory is the Retainer, and I have a bottle out in the depths of the garage, (although it is probably past it best now, not good).. I know that I would not be fearful from using it, as it is extremely strong. You have to be careful with it as it goes off fairly quickly especially in tight fitting areas where the clearance is tighter.. You have to be quick assembling the parts before it starts to set or you could end up not having the parts fully home.. Cold sweats start then... As for the Araldite and the silver compound, "Devcon" or similar (chemical metal) comes to mind and would be a better option. Excellent idea Al.. If you could get a reference for the seal, that would be good..
Update.. Here are a couple of photos of the Stanchion and Clamp and the fixing screw.. After cleaning the Stanchion and the bore of the Clamp, the parts will still be an interference fit. In the centre region of the bore, there is a 3 thou relief for retainer.
Slight derail - My front end on the 600ss is very bouncy - want to damp rebound Any recommendations of oil weight (I am 80kg in gear) and can I remove the top hex nut without the spring being under pressure if I raise off the ground?
If you have Marzocchis (large hex on the top cap and non-adjustable) the oil weight should be SAE 7.5 according to the owner's handbook. You can undo the top nut but slacken off the top yoke clamp bolt first, then lift the front up and undo the cap. You cannot drain the oil out completely if you leave the forks assembled, so you can never be sure how much you have in there. You need 380cc and the measurement is 90mm; again according to the owner's handbook. However, the Marzocchis are much easier to strip apart than the Showas. NB! FYI......I added 10cc more oil to my Marzocchis and they were as hard as hell........Just as well I fitted Showas. AL
Sorry tinkerer, can't find the seal size yet....still looking. I may have mentioned it somewhere in this forum (SS) AL
No worries about the seals, I'll probably stick some standard seals in for the time being and I can change them again if they still leak..
