Suspension Settings

It really depends on your weight....there is a procedure for setting it up....youll need a tape measure as well....

 

Yeah make sure the sag is set up right for your weight (in riding gear) first. Once that's sorted you can start trying out the other settings in small increments.

 

Mines the SP so has Marzocchi forks and Ohlins rear.
Preload was set up for my ride preferences and weight. I ride dragging the rear end into corners using engine braking and slipper clutch most of the time rather than diving on the front brake. The set up from Ducati is far too hard and overly damped but at least I can adjust that unlike the 'lesser' models. I have not changed springs yet as I ride both solo and with a pessenger. However, I have backed the fork compression damping right off to fully out and have rebound damping all the way out then back in 4 clicks. The rear shock is set up much the same; it is set far far too hard by Ducati and needs to be back wayyyy the F out! Again, damn near all the way on compression and similar for rebound. It now rides reasonably well over bumps and drives well out of corners settling down under power but not bouncing. I have raced lots of bikes and also own a KTM690smc and KTM300exc. The Ducati is set up as close to the 690 as possible right down to the handlebar position. Of course at 7" suspension vs 12", it will never be quite as compliant over the roughest shitty roads here in New Zealand but it's pretty bloody good. If you have an SP and want more detail; let me know

 

Here ya go; for the SP from another thread. The damping needs a BIG change, small increments are just not good enough to start with on this bike.

If you are lighter than me; turn the damping out (anti clockwise) a little more than these settings and if you're heavier; turn them out a little less. This is a big change from standard but is much more comfortable on the road and soaks up bumps and lumps better helping keep those wheels on the ground. Use this as a start point and try to think about what the bike is doing as you ride.

IE: If the back end seems to be coming up 'too fast' after compressing over a bump; you need MORE rebound damping. If it doesn't come up much at all and when you hit the next bump, it packs down lower and feels really harsh; you probably need less rebound damping.
Learning to 'feel' the suspension and understanding what to adjust to tame it is a skill that takes a fair bit of attention but once you've 'got it' you'll be forever grateful.

I set this up with an old friend who specialises in bike suspension. The idea was to use what we have and set it up to be the best it could be. Starting at Ducati's setup, I rode the bike with cable ties on the suspension and wasn't surprised to find that only just over half the suspension travel was being used solo. That rear spring is too hard solo and should be replaced unless you ride with a passenger (that's always gonna be a compromise). As for the damping, it was just too hard all round but unless you ride like me and are my weight; these are only a starting point from which to tune in your own settings. Hang on, I'll go look at the actual numbers (I keep them written in a log book)............

Here are my current settings (assuming you've set static sag already):Screw all damping screws fully in then adjust to these settings.

Solo Riding (with std springs) 104kg rider:

Fork compression: 28 clicks out.
Fork Rebound: 13 clicks out.

Rear Shock compression: 34 clicks out
Rear Shock rebound: 11 clicks out

Two Up Riding (with std springs), 104kg rider, 70kg passenger:

Fork compression and rebound: same as above, i like them like this

Rear Shock compression: 8 clicks out
Rear Shock rebound: 2 clicks out

Note the big difference between solo and two up riding. That's why I can't fit a lighter rear spring. If I did, I would probably not have enough damping adjustment left to control rear shock speed. The weights are 'with gear' leathers, boots and helmet.

Note: the Hypermotard SP has almost 7" of suspension and on the road, you should be using 80-90% of that every ride on your normal routes. The last 10-20% is for when you hit something unusual like a pothole. Yes, the front WILL dive under hard braking; this bike has almost double the suspension travel of a sport/race bike. However, if you slow down largely by changing gears using the slipper clutch to prevent lock ups; you'll probably be a smoother rider and have a much more comfy bike.

 

I will try these settings too. thanks Idleidolidyll for the precious settings. my ducati Dealer confirms that the rear pre-load has to be dialed almost completely out but SAG depends on your weight so I will measure it this weekend and take it from there. I guess the cool thing about the SP is you can tweak the suspensions. leaving it unchanged kinda defeats the purpose

 

pisquano: Your shop is one of the good ones. Sadly, many shop staff just don't understand suspension. I heard one shop here in NZ suggest that the Hyper SP suspension was nasty because it was bottoming out (they made this assumption based on a conversation with the rider, not by riding the bike themselves with cable ties on the suspension rods). They had convinced another SP owner that he should fit a heavier spring to sort that out. That will be a disaster if he does it. They are also correct about the Static Sag and that's why I have not given my details: it's all about the riders weight and ride style. Stay loyal to those guys; they seem to be on the ball

 

Been fiddling with the R&C setting, looking to try idles suggested settings.. had to resort to the manual, now even more confused...

here is an extract from the manual, note the BOLD text and the differences between the description and the instruction.

The rear shock absorber has commands that enable you to adjust the setting to suit the load on the motorcycle.
The knob (1) on the expansion reservoir controls compression damping.
The knob (3), located on the upper point at which the shock absorber is fixed to the swingarm, controls rebound damping. Turn the knobs (1) and (3) clockwise to stiffen the damping or anticlockwise to soften it.
Two ring nuts (2) located on the lower section of the shock absorber are used to adjust the outer spring preload. To adjust spring preload, loosen the upper locking ring nut. TIGHTEN or LOOSEN the lower ring nut to INCREASE or DECREASE spring preload.
STANDARD setting from the fully closed position (clockwise):

- rebound: unscrew the adjuster (1) by 16 clicks from Max (fully closed);
- compression: unscrew adjuster (3) by 10 clicks from Max (fully closed);
- spring preload: 7 mm from Min. (all unpreloaded).​

​

the extract here is from an workshop manual i found on line, but the description in the owners book is exactly the same.

So Guys.. Which is it?

Which ever way round it is the adjuster labeled 3 in the picture, on my bike was wound fully ACW (viewed from the bottom of the shock) I've not made any adjustments since I got the thing.

Dave

 

Apologies: You're correct Dave, I should have referred to notes and manual. The dial on the resovoir is the compression adjuster and the dial on the top is rebound. (I haven't needed to adjust them since I dialled it in properly about a year ago). Settings however, are as per my notes for comfort and good handling.

My notes corrected:

Solo Riding (with std springs) 104kg rider:
Fork compression: 28 clicks out.
Fork Rebound: 13 clicks out.

Rear Shock rebound: 34 clicks out
Rear Shock compression: 11 clicks out

Two Up Riding (with std springs), 104kg rider, 70kg passenger:

Fork compression and rebound: same as above, i like them like this

Rear Shock rebound: 8 clicks out
Rear Shock compression: 2 clicks out

 

Thanks idle

have been clicking and bouncing all evening, might have it figured out now.. the Ducati manual still has its knobs in a twist though..

sorry just one more clarification.. ompus:

when you say "clicks out", you mean ACW turns from a fully CW setting?

thanks

 

Yes, the numbers are click out anti clockwise after you've screwed them full in clockwise.

Let me know what you think: it should feel like a whole other bike but also, if you're lighter than me, you should turn the dials out even more.

My last Ducati was the Multistrada 1200S. It had awesome suspension and with the electronic adjustment; was very easy to get right. My Hypermotard SP is not as good as the MTS yet (suspension) but it's MUCH closer than with the std Ducati settings.

I really do suggest you put a cable tie on one front fork piston (the inner leg tube) and a very thin one on the rear shock piston as well. Push those to the top of the front fork and to the bottom of the rear shock before you go out for a ride.
Measure the distance of the cable tie movement after you come back (ride a bumpy but not nasty road).
If you've used say 4.5" at the front (112mm), that is probably pretty good given the bike already has about 45mm static sag (making the actual total 157mm). That equates to about 85% of the total leaving 15% for when you hit that nasty pothole you just can't avoid.

 

thanks for that, will be out riding all weekend with the new settings, will report back...

 

now then,

300 miles of B and A roads this weekend, roads were shocking, covered in mud, clay and diesel, slippy as fook, so couldnt go hard at it, but had lots of fun anyways..(apologies to the 748/916 I overtook going up Hartside :Woot: , nice wellies by the way!)

been out on the new fork and shock settings as quoted by Mr Idle, and, well, thanks very much, wouldn't say transformed but a much nicer ride, definitely softer, more compliant. Was riding on roads I'm pretty familiar with, so know all the bumps and potholes. Usually I get punted out of the seat going over some of those lumps, but this time it felt the fork (especially the fork) was actually reacting to the road surface, that must be having wound the compression damping pretty much all the way off, 28 clicks from the standard 14. The front is diving more under braking, but I kinda like that, diving but still enough travel left to track the bumps..

FTR: I weigh in at about 75Kg dry, probably about 85Kg suited up and with my bag on the back?

Thanks again Mr Idle, never felt confident about tweaking suspension settings, now i've started, eh...!

oh yeah, and it's time for a new rear tyre, the BT30 is completely effed (3200 miles?), all the rubber round the centre has peeled off, no metal showing but zero traction on the wet stuff, TG for DTC!