Hi all, after doing a bit of research I have ordered a PDOILER. Was looking at a TUTORO Auto but I like the idea of the PD being based on a timer. Any how's, can anyone recommend the best place to pick up a 12v supply that is switched by the ignition. Don't know much about CANBUS so don't want screw things up. Any recommendation on physical connectors from the perfectionists out there would also be much appreciated. Ta Rob
You can get a switched 12v from the Satnav power connector located behind the LH front side panel or from the feeds to one of the 2 power connectors below the rear seat.
Thanks Derek. I was thinking about power outlet, what's the best way to break into it though. Want to avoid a heath Robinson wiring job
You have 2 options really. Strip off 3mm or so of the insulation, wrap your wire round the conductor and solder. Then wrap it with self-amalgamating tape to keep the weather out. Or use one of these I've never been a great fan of Scotchlok connectors but at least these ones are waterproof. It would also be worth checking to see whether the fusebox under the seat has a spare terminal under it which would make life much easier. You want to tap into the red/blue wire.
I wouldn't use a scotchlock, they can and do cause lots of problems, do it properly either at the connector to the power socket or a solder joint.
Pull the wires from the cig lighter - assuming you don't need it for anything else - they are just spade connectors on the back of them, crimp some terminals to the wires for your chain oiler and job done, completely reversible and tidy.
Cheers all. Big trip planned at Easter to Italy so don't think a rattle can of line really practical.
Personally I carry a rattle can of chain lube, just a small coke can size one, what I do is just do the bit of chain I can see when I fill up, the theory being that over the trip it all gets lubed. I ride a PP so no centre stand and don't find it a problem.
Dear god don't use a scotchlock I was forever sorting vehicle wiring faults caused by people using these, if you must cut into a wire then cut solder in and heat shrink.
Not sure why people hold these in such low regard. I have a winter hack with wiring changes I did 18 years ago using these. Never been a problem yet and it gets some serious neglect and abuse. Chances are they will outlast a Ducati.
I think the main problem with Scotchloks is that they cut through the insulation and allow the weather to get in so that corrosion of the conductor inevitably starts sooner or later depending on the environment it lives in. Further the cable is mechanically weakened at the point where the insulation is cut. The grease-filled ones should at least address the corrosion problem. I should point out that I never condoned them in the first place. and now that I realise that there are spades on the back of the power outlets I agree that that's the place to make the connection.
I think they need to be taken into context when being used. Whilst I would not rewire an aircraft using them, an oiler 12v feed is probably nothing to lose sleep over. I don't think the canbus extends to the aux feeds either.
@halflife where are you? If you pop around to Heathrow I'll solder the wires to the rear of the socket for you and make good the IP rating. x6 Just bring me 6x bottles of cold Sol to drink while I'm doing it.
Air con, I'm in northwales unfortunately. Thanks for the offer though. Finished the install, see separate thread, all went well, quite pleased by the end result. Thank you for everyone's help
