So, Noel in the tool room made me this device to my dimensions to drift out the seized rear bolt..... Consists of a shaft, a sacrificial brass end and an anvil............. Basically knocked the 916 across the garage with a 15lb sledge hammer with a 4 foot handle............ Am I missing something here? Is the brass end too big, have I just "bell ended" the frame, should the end be threaded into the shaft? Frame was braced with a ratchet strap........... Like, I beat the crap out of it and it felt like I was hitting a safe door. What is the size of the hole in the frame to get onto the end of the shaft?
No.... you got me there, I'm a 53 year old engineer who needs advice on removal of a shaft that obviously requires some sort of technique....... your refusal of advice based on some etiquette baffles me..................
Are you sure about your age? It's only the kids that say basically and like. As a 53 year old engineer, you should be able to work the problem out yourself.
I'm surrounded by young persons, there is an element of "rub off"..................... I am totally sure about my age, as for "working out the problem", I asked for advice so that I didn't damage something, that's why the question was posed and that's why I joined this forum as I have only owned a 916 for a short period of time, not to be subjected to a condescending assumption of my age or ability and have tech help refused for using a couple of words that someone has an objection to.............. I am a senior member of the RD forum and have 4000 posts on there, mostly tech help to others who needed help, not once discriminating against anyone who did not use the "correct" language or grammar, I assumed that the same was forthcoming here.
So, is there anybody else who holds the secret to the removal of the rear shaft that has no objection to giving out classified information to young people or people who have foolishly used "basically" or "like" in a thread............... Like, has no one on here used either of these words ever before........... basically............... :biggrin: Feck me, I thought the RD forum was hard work at times........
Daisy, Only tugging your leg. If you read some other threads, you'll see a dislike of certain words used in everyday speak. The shaft should be a slide fit. if you've spanked it hard and it hasn't shifted, looks like cutting it out is the only option. Although, you should try nelly's solution first.
OK thanks, will have a look at that shortly, my concern was if the drift had to be actually threaded into the shaft and whether or not driving the end of the shaft was enough, but my concern is whether there is enough room for my tool (oh... er matron) and small enough to pass through the frame and actually drift the shaft out. I can't see how big the hole is in the recess of the frame as to where the shaft ends and the frame begins buried in there............. As said, it's like hitting a solid metal block, so, I wondered if I was actually hitting the frame itself.........? As for spanking it, I will need a new consignment of monkeys here............:biggrin:
Well........ assuming that you take out the bolt on the right and drive it from the right to the left would be the norm..........? But, I may be missing something...? Or totally wrong............... ?
I have removed several of these and it's probably one of the worst jobs you can do. Initially you should be hitting the bolt itself in the centre as it protrudes from the hole that supports it, just undo it enough to make it move a bit, after that you need to strike the shaft itself, If you follow that. The thread is very strong and can tolerate a good "beating" providing you don't unwind the bolt too much. It took me a whole week once to remove one of these!!!! you need to soak it in penetrating oil and then for safety keep the bolt in and hit that with a drift. Once it moves then usually it will start to come out more easily and you need to be hitting the threaded end to finally get it out, without the bolt. If someone can thread the end of your drift then you stand less chance of damaging the thread. I once used an SDS drill and a drift to effectively hammer against the bolt and this seemed to work as the vibration helped to loosen it. Good luck, I have always managed to get my bolts out and some have been really hard, you just have to persist and be careful not to damage the thread in the engine bolt. If you need more information let me know, good luck.
I needed heat around the bushes that go into the frame to get mine out, if you get it to move just a small amount then knock it back in again and work it back and forth with plenty of lubricant. Steve PS. I now remove and grease mine every service, it's now a five minute job.
Daisy that looks like a beautifully made tool, I presume it is a correct copy of Ducati's one. Is the step on the brass bit square, it looks tapered in your photo but that could just be shadow. Needs to be square. So assuming that is all correct I found that when I did mine (had the same tool made out of ali and nowhere near as nice as yours) it wouldn't move the bolt until I got a mate to hold a big sledge hammer against the frame on the other side (gunna toast the paint possibly) or put that part of the bike against an immovable object if you know what I mean. Mine took quite a lot of force, bent my tool, so don't be shy and give it a serious hit with a very big hammer. It would appear that some of these are so rusted in that there is no alternative to cutting them out though.
I don't think Ducati greased these bolts from new, they relied on the plating to protect them and it doesn't. I always clean my bolts up on a lathe when I get them out to get rid of any surface rust.
ever heard of a product called, worth rost off. good stuff. worth products are v.good, expensive but very good.
The brass drift needs to be square, i agree with Bront it looks like its tapered ? so you get a good solid face on the thin spindle surface. some photos to help. brian.
Thanks for that, that's what I like to see, verniers and mics with numbers displayed. The brass end has a taper on it, I'll need to make a new one as mine is undersize at 18mm dia..... I couldn't get anything of mine in there to measure the end of the shaft so took a "best guess". Just want to check that the shaft end comes through the frame and not up to the back of it so 20mm (in reality 19.90 from the pictures to be sure of clearance) will actually be on the shaft and not in contact with the frame in any fashion? While I'm at it, I can get the correct fine thread cut onto the end of the brass piece, if this is recommended as well?
